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#1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lynden ,WA
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I think your putting the cart in front of the horse.
It will be pretty hard to make your car work consistently with what you have. The traction bars will help but are not the answer.
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2009 V/SA Record Holder |
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#2 |
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Location: Canada
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I think you're overthinking the suspension. As stated, you need real slicks. Maybe take some clutch out and lower your launch RPM. Myself, and others I know struggled with Cal Tracs and adjusted them all over the place with no improvement until the rest of the setup was right. The lower pivot hole theoretically moves the I/C farther out and softens the hit. The top hole hits the tire harder. Do you have adjustable rear shocks?
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Dale Posnick |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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Maybee your right about over thinking it all?
Shocks are DA's on rear. they are mounted in the oem location in front of the axle. I cant beleive 28x12.5 ET street bias is not enough tire to hook this thing?, but I'll take you guys word for it, my next tire will be a stiff sidewall slick. Thanks for your input about the top/bottom adjustment hole's effects. I keep thinking that because slow speed video is showing the tires turning before the suspension seperates, that I need the suspension to hit the tire quicker. I guess I have the rest of the season to mess with that, because new tires are not happening untill spring time. Thanks Barrett |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Winnipeg, MB
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Hey Barrett,
If my wheel offset will work on your car you can try my slicks for a couple passes...... not 12 ! I know how you like to make laps!! Ha ha I know Ed doesn't buy it but I still think track prep is better on Saturday as well. Gary |
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#5 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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Yeah sat is probably the way to go Tony - thanks for the advice, it makes sense. I will definately mess with the shocks to see if they can lead me in the right direction. Last edited by 3pedals; 07-23-2011 at 07:22 PM. |
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#6 |
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Location: Anthem, Arizona
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And I saw elsewhere that you had a pair of very old and probably worn out leaf springs. We all understand budgets but there is no "miracle band-aide cure on the cheap" when it comes to a drag race rear suspension.
I would put a pair of M/T 9x29.5 stiff sidewall slicks on it at the same time I put a pair of Calvert Racing rear springs. I'm guessing that would help a ton. Then you can save for a good clutch as offered by either McLeod or Advanced because the clutch and rear suspension are all inter-related. But I would definitely suggest the rear part of the car gets the first rehab.
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Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX |
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#7 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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I am not looking for miracles Jeff, I am just trying to learn how to build me a working stick car rear suspension. Do I want antisquat, or no antisquat? what does a stick car want on the "hit" My car does not seperate the suspension at all on the hit, but after the tires spin a few(8-10) revolutions , then it seperates about 1.5" and the front comes up, and the car moves out - kinda makes me think i need to add some antisquat to the initial hit to try to get the tire to bite? ****, this car 60'd 1.60 with frickin drag radials that everyone said DONT work with the stick, now I switch to the Bias, and I'm havin trouble getting theese 28 x 12.5 bias to even run the same 60's. |
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