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#1 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Happy Valley, OR
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Regards,
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Michael Pliska 643 S/G |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: west coast
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I did the same thing a couple of years ago. Maybe I go lucky, never had a problem with a crack. What I did have a problem with was I did not change out the frost plugs and lost 2 of them the first time I had the motor up to temp.
Replace the frost plugs. Pressure test it, if it holds I think you'd be good. About the draining the rad and adding anti freeze. I rented out my garage to some buddies to store their race cars 1 year and during a real cold snap 1 of the guys showed up just to check the rad/water. He drained the rad, added antifreeze ran the pump to mix it up and the freezing temp of the coolant did not go below freezing... It baffled us for a bit. We fired the car up, got it up to temp and then retested the coolant and then it regestered below zero. I think that the anti freeze and water need heat to mix properly. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wind Lake, WI
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I did have a engine block that cracked. It didnt crack for the same reason but I also JB welded it and as far as I know the guy I sold the motor to still runs it that way today.
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#4 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cascade, CO
Posts: 48
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Have you pulled the oil dipstick and checked it? If it shows about 3 quarts above the full line, you've got cracks inside, probably in the lifter valley area.
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#5 |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bellevue Ohio
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This may be an odd question, but why would you leave water in any engine, the minerals in water attack almost every part of the cooling system. My suggestion (take it for what it's worth) drain the block and rad. go buy 2 gals. of premix antifreeze and pour it in, this would eliminate the potential for freezing and the antifreeze helps stop the errosion effects of water. Joe.....P.S. I've been told by may Rad. manufactures that you should use distilled water in a race motor as all the nasty stuff has been boiled away
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Joe Buchanan SS/BX 3117 |
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