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#41 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Topeka, Kansas Track: Heartland Park
Posts: 41
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#42 | |
Veteran Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: NOO JOISEY nexta NOO YAWK
Posts: 5,879
Likes: 38
Liked 100 Times in 45 Posts
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impressed.My whole point is for you to learn some people skills.Remember racing is just a little diversion from real life.
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Former NHRA #1945 Former IHRA #1945 T/SA |
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#43 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Topeka, Kansas Track: Heartland Park
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
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#44 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 16
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Just make it a drag car and go have fun. Its hard to race on a computer, sounds like you have a car, headers on the way, and a engine being built so get it togeather and race.
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#45 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Topeka, Kansas Track: Heartland Park
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
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#46 | |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Tampa Fla / Anderson SC
Posts: 334
Likes: 12
Liked 3 Times in 2 Posts
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Not looking to bust your balls or anything, but throughout this thread you talk about how YOUR building this bad *** car.... Truth is its only a mustang with a damn chevy, anyone could do this... Im sure you will have fun with it.. but you claim your building this car, yet I read its at someones shop to have a cage put in.... Someone else is doing the motor... What the hell are you doing other than paying other people to do the work???? Hell anyone can build a car that way.... If you trully want to run your flap on here and earn the respect you think you should be getting from the get go... learn what the hell your doing, and do the work yourself... Most of us on here build our own cars from ground up... You come on here asking for advice, yet you seem to have the answers for everything... instead of listening to what others on here are offering for advice, you typicly act like the kid you are and jump on everyones **** for making comments about putting a chevy on a ford... As for your comment of old school hot rods... You couldnt even come close to understand what went into building one until you build one.. and I dont mean send it here or there to have stuff done for you...
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NHRA: Comp 2200 - S/C 2201 NMRA 2012 Outlaw 10.5 #10 |
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#47 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Topeka, Kansas Track: Heartland Park
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
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#48 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NS CANADA
Posts: 884
Likes: 1,564
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Wow, pages of bickering. Different approach would of avoided all this. Your young full of piss and vinigar, good for you.
Hows this; If your just getting into racing I would say build a modest street car and tow it to the track. Nothing worse then breaking a car and needing a ride home. Why a modest street car? Because you are starting out and it is more fun/better experience to learn running against others at your level (street or sportsman) then building a 11 flat car and being lumped in with the 50year olds with 35years experience.(pro/super pro) It's not the car, it's seat time that will win you races. Or, you can build a race car, but make it run 12.50-13.50 with deadly consistency and have fun. Or, you can build a all out 10.50 race car, show up at a track with a "I can do it all" attitude and be on the trailer first round all summer long. By the end of the summer you'll be upset/tired/sick of it and you won't enjoy racing and quit. And yes that includes running 10.50, scaring the crap out of yourself, but after your used to it being bored running 12 flat. As far as the chebby in a ford, if your an antagonistic kind of guy (which it appears here, you are) then whatever, do what you want. But there is no excuse anymore to run a chebby motor in a ford. If your a chebby guy, then your just using a ford body for your engine because chebby cars suck so bad. There is a couple of fox body mustangs around here with sbc's in them. One particular one went from a reliable 12.00 second 351W to a 11.30 350sbc but has scattered 3 engines in the 3 years since the change, so whatever floats your boat I guess. You understand it's a BRACKET race eh? The ET isn't as important as having fun and being consistent. (regardless of the make of the car or engine) Have fun, enjoy the hobby, just ease up on the attitude a bit. (yeah we were all that young and wound up at one time, I went with fords because NOBODY else ran them..I was the antagonistic one! LOL!) |
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#49 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Topeka, Kansas Track: Heartland Park
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
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![]() Last edited by dragster2006; 10-22-2009 at 08:40 PM. |
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#50 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NS CANADA
Posts: 884
Likes: 1,564
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Fox body stripped down for racing should be 2700 or so. (less if using fibreglass or chromemolly etc) So I would say 300-350hp should be enough to have fun with. A 5.0 with cam and aftermarket heads/intake/headers on a stock 5.0gt shortblock will give you enough.(5.0gt's come stock with forged pistons,roller cam, bottom end good for 6500rpm) or you can run a 351. Chevies can be cheaper but the cost of sbf to sbc is really minimal now.
So, you got a sbc, glide or t350, 4:11 rear gear. Don't wind it too tight as that will eat your budget. Sub frame connectors, update the rear arms(axle?) all the standard fox tricks and you'll have fun. When you want to go faster build the motor up a bit, but don't go crazy as it's a bracket car. You'll have more fun in a more consistent reliable car if you run a bbf or bbc at 5500-6000 all day long then 7500-8000rpm small block and changing springs etc every half season. Yeah I'm a big ford guy and don't like to see crossbreading as there is no excuse for it anymore, but I'm not going to scream and jump up and down about what somebody else is doing....unless they're in my face about it. |
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