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#1 |
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Adding 150lbs is a little harder than I thought. I have to separate it into permanent weight with a welded nut, removable weight bolted to frame/ chassis and a weight box for adjustment. Before I go through all this how much ET difference am I looking at with a low 10 sec. big block car? I would imagine the 1/10 per hundred is not the same for every combo.
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Mike 7570 A/SA |
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#2 |
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I've seen cars not lose a tick after adding 100 lbs. My guess... you lose a tenth. Report back.
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#3 |
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Thanks
If I don’t lose much I would rather add the weight and go down a class. I need a couple of tenths either way to be more competitive. The index difference is three tenths and if I only lose one it’s like finding a couple of tenths. Seems like a logical choice except the lower class has about double the amount of cars.
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Mike 7570 A/SA |
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#4 |
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Mike, start with the box. You can then add the weight to the box if done for testing and experiment outside of competition and it will allow you to move the weight around to see results. If it does not work out then at least you have the box to make incremental smaller (up to 100 lb scale deviation weight changes legally later).
Sometimes just moving weight around in different combos can yield surprising results. You already know your starting scale weight from the last run you made in competition so just weigh everything you add or subtract in accomplishing the task so keep accurate records and be careful with your math as scales will not be open during testing periods and you may want to revert it right back to where it last was quickly. Good luck.
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Gary Lucier - 7832 STK. / 7832 E.T. EF/S Slow Sled. I am, but a simple test of your true patience. So, do all the really "Big Wheelies" you can! |
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#5 |
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This is part of the appeal of class racing vs .90 racing that I use to do. There is more strategy with being able to move up or down classes and you pay more attention to how many competitors are in your class and how well each of them run. Heads up with no break out, either you want them or you want to avoid them. Now if I can only get use to a count down tree!
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Mike 7570 A/SA Last edited by Mike Gray; 09-09-2024 at 11:03 PM. |
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This^^^^
You would be surprised at WHERE you can gain and lose ET by not just piling all of your weight in the trunk. There was a good article about moving weight in one of the magazines some years ago and as I can recall it involved Sheldon Gecker's S/G car.
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Billy Nees 1188 STK, SS I'm not spending 100K to win 2K |
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#7 | |
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In my case the finished product scaling the car was surprisingly well done w/ me in the drivers seat helmet on, the front corners are exactly 3 lbs. difference. Getting the weight transferred from rear to front was accomplished by replacing the stock 14 gal tank with a 5 gal cell, but the rear is 155 lbs. heavier on left rear than right...but those are not the drive tires anyway, just along for the ride and some added smooth and effective efficient braking power down at the dancing end. Lol. We read the same info Billy. Yes, making the weight work can make you hook up in a snow storm on a nicely prepared track
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Gary Lucier - 7832 STK. / 7832 E.T. EF/S Slow Sled. I am, but a simple test of your true patience. So, do all the really "Big Wheelies" you can! |
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#8 | ||
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![]() Same 4 bolts I still use now to secure the weight box. ![]() Quote:
That said, 150 lbs. will surely slow your ET about a tenth and the car will hook in a puddle. Last edited by 1320racer; 09-10-2024 at 11:19 AM. |
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