rusted engine blocks

[BTR69]

Thanks again for the info y'all. I'm much more optimistic that they're useable now. Hopefully I'll get to spend some time with these soon. I'll try to take the time to document everything.

[Jim Cimarolli]

What about media blasting?

[Cglrcng]

Have seen many (youtube videos), of people doing plastic drum anode electrolysis on rusted blocks and other cast iron parts/pcs. (You would need/ o watch a few vids to get the chemical and electrical choices that they use, but I have seen amazing results (the water and chemicals they use may be a hazardous materials issue later as the drum is usually pretty mucked up once the process is completed). Have seen them use Welding machines to battery chargers for the DC current as it flat boils the rust away.

Then maybe an immediate hot tanking and bead blasting & then full machining at a machine shop), as soon as it is
removed from the drum. Torch all exterior surfaces w/ Propane or Map gas torch to remove (quickly cook away all grease and oil on exterior surfaces after that, mask and paint ASAP after short block assembly). Personally I like Dupli-Color Engine or Caliper Enamel with ceramic as it withstands up to 500 degree temps and oil and other fluids, resists chipping due to the added
ceramic.

Have seen some pretty rusted cast iron blocks, pans (as in cookware), look like new once done. Just make sure you do it outside in open air as it creates an acid during the process.

[Cglrcng]

https://youtube.com/shorts/h_rXSqb_w...IxYM21m4f7DhWc

Pickling...or an acid dip of entire rusted block in HCL Acid really does the job. Looks like new and is pretty fast in comparison to the above method I called out using DC electricity.

[rx dealer]

Check out Dave's auto center on facebook they specialize in diesel engines. They put rusty blocks, heads in a machine and it shoots stainless pelets at the rusty part, comes out like new! Luke

[Frank Castros]

Another great Tech thread with a special shout out to Dwight, Steve and Alan.

Petty Enterprises rough bored wedge blocks are legendary. A very close friend had one, regrets not using it in his Max Wedge car, however sold it for largese.

We don't know if it was was exhumed from their cylinder block cemetery though. LOL!

Too cool!

PS; Cast Iron intakes and cylinder heads included in this "dirt nap" process?

[Paul Precht]

Originally Posted by Dwight Southerland

Relevant and interesting story. When I was constructing my '67 Z28 in 1979, I came across two identical '68 small journal 327 blocks that were removed from city dumptrucks. (These blocks were unique in that they had fully machined crank bulkheads and used longer main cap bolts like on 350 4-bolt blocks.) Having heard about Grumpy "curing" blocks by burying them, I decided to give it a try. I first had both blocks Brinnell tested on the deck surface and the pan rail. I stored one in the corner of my heated shop and the other I buried under the frost line behind the shop. In the spring after the chassis work was done and the body had been prepped and painted, I dug up the "cured" block and had both of them tested again. The "cured" block was indeed 4 points harder than the "uncured" block. What was surprising to me was that both blocks had been run 75K miles in dumptrucks before I got them!

Could you share the brinell readings.

[Mike Pearson]

One of the main problems with the rusted blocks is the degradation of the threads in the block, Especially the head and main bolt threads. Corrosion eats away at the threads then they pull out when the proper torque is applied. I would shy away from a severely corroded block for this reason. Blasting and chemical cleaning only removes more metal making the problem worse.