Quote:
Originally Posted by 1320racer
Most everyone in a door car never puts their visor down and I have removed the visors from my helmets since I started wearing a full face helmet over 3 decades ago. I also don?t use a head sock, rather a helmet skirt.
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In a doorcar, there's a big difference in the fire protection provided by the structure of a chassis car like Pro Stock, TS, SG, fast brackets, etc., and a production body with all of the OE sheet metal intact. I think the requirements in the Rulebook reflect that.
Suits are designed to buy you some time before the heat of a fire penetrates to your skin and causes severe burns. The time is measured in seconds. The higher the dash number of the suit, the more time you have before you have real issues. They don't make you bulletproof.
As far as cleaning-
Per Impact:
To wash your suit, make sure the washing machine is on the delicate cycle in luke warm with a max temperate of 40 degrees Celsius. Don?t add any other articles of clothing to the wash, wash your suit by itself to ensure it doesn?t rip or tear on another piece of clothing. We recommend fastening all the zippers and connecting the hook and loop closures and turning the suit inside out to wash. Turning the suit inside out, protects the embroidery from being caught in the wash machine and possibly ripping.
Per Simpson:
Simpson racing suits manage extreme heat while maintaining comfort, style and durability. We recommend you dry clean your suit with a reputable dry cleaning establishment. Never use petroleum-based dry cleaning solvents on your fire suit. After a race, hang the suit to dry before storing.
I would say, follow the recommendations of the company who made your suit.