Racing Shocks!
 

Am running a B-Sitck '69 Nova big block. Am looking for some info on racing shocks. Am currently using AFCO racing shock double adjustable front and rear. Any adjustment I make on the shocks doesn't seem to lift the front end or 'squat' the back end on launch (not getting weight transfer). Wondering what people are running in the 'stick' classes for shocks that work?

Re: Racing Shocks!
 

I've had QA-1 and AFCO on the front when I ran D/S. I prefered the AFCO's. On the rear I had Strange then AFCO. Prefered the AFCO. If I wanted new shocks, I would also look into Santhuff.
But I doubt your shock is the problem. The first thing that comes to mind is something in your suspension is binding. Disconnect the shocks, jounce it around and figure it out. Bolts too tight? Proper Stock Eliminator loose bushings?

Re: Racing Shocks!
 

Jeff,
The owner before me had done the suspension over.He used Delrin lube able upper&lower bushings and new tie rods.Moroso front springs were used part#47195.He cut a 1/2 coil from the right spring.
Thanks for the info.
Ronn

Re: Racing Shocks!
 

Ronn,

I agree with Jeff binding could be a problem what rear springs are you running? could be the front spring are too haevy of spring rate? Not sure of the spring number but I run the Moroso small block springs the softest they make and I still had to cut around 3/4 of a coil off. You need the front end as loose as you can get for the weight transfer and then use the shock to control the separation.

Dirk Olson
5036 B/S

Re: Racing Shocks!
 

You don't really want the rear to squat. If it's squatting, it's absorbing weight transfer. You just want to make sure it isn't too stiff so that it doesn't move at all. Once the car starts working, the rear should actually rise and separate.

What are you using for rear springs and rear traction bars?

For the front. Take the springs out, and the shocks off, see if the suspension moves freely. If it doesn't, something is bound up. Then put the shocks on, run the adjustments to full soft for both compression and extension, and test for free movement again.

We use regular small block springs, not the trick springs. We also switched to Santhuff shocks, you have to hit the Afco shocks harder to get them to work.

Re: Racing Shocks!
 

Caltracs were installed in 2006.I do not know about the rear springs if they are stock or not.You guys might know this car.It was Arnold Greene's car that was raced by Jerry Hemmingston in the 90's and early 2000's.
Last fall when I noticed the front end was not working I loosened up the top mount on the front shocks.After I did that I could lift the front end up with 1 hand almost full travel.When I snugged the mount up I needed 2 hands to lift the front end up.Ronn

Re: Racing Shocks!
 

CalTracs split leafs are pretty obvious, you can see the split.

If the front shocks being properly mounted cause a bind, then there's something wrong there, it may be binding the shock shaft. You need to look at both ends of the shock and the mounts.

If these are the old style shocks that do not require the lower A-arm to be modified, I'd be looking real hard at a new set of Santhuffs and the mounts for the lower A-arm.

How long have you had this car, and who did you buy it from?

Re: Racing Shocks!
 

The Caltracs are split leaf spring.I have had the car 2 years and I bought it from Matt Beumer.He raced an A/SA 1970 Corvette before the Nova.

Re: Racing Shocks!
 

When your working on your race car and you find something like "Last fall when I noticed the front end was not working I loosened up the top mount on the front shocks.After I did that I could lift the front end up with 1 hand almost full travel.When I snugged the mount up I needed 2 hands to lift the front end up" STOP RIGHT THERE! The car is telling you there is a problem and you need to figure it out. Stay focused on one area at a time.
Shock may be adjusted wrong, shock may be bent, shock may be too short.
Obviously there is a problem and you just need to stay on it.