Frame tie-in
 

Looking for an opinion as to who, what, or how the best way to strengthen a ' 65 Mustang coupe frame? I have seen 2-3 different kits (some bolt on and some 100% weld in) and don't know which is best. At some time or another this car may evolve into a full time stock eliminator , but for now a bracket car is what it is being built for. The car is a definite project and currently a " frame off " restoration. tnks for the advice!!!!

Re: Frame tie-in
 

Welding always gives the stiffest frame/body.

Re: Frame tie-in
 

Ditto and I would spend the money for the moly tubing instead of mile steel.

Re: Frame tie-in
 

To keep the car legal, and to ever restore it to stock, use a good bolt in kit, supplemented with a couple of welds here and there.
NHRA Stock Eliminator requires all the parts to be "bolt on", so you can see what is coming there.

I can't see the point of using Moly to weld to mild steel, but that is just me.:confused:

Re: Frame tie-in
 

2007 rulebook states: Section 5A Stock Cars.
Subframes on unibody cars may be joined. Maximum-size material to be used is 2" X 3" X 1/8". Round tubing may be used to tie front and rear subframes together and join subframe in straight line extending through the car floor, with floor welded to member.

No where does it state that it has to be removable.

Sean

Re: Frame tie-in
 

I stand corrected.

Re: Frame tie-in
 

Traction devices are supposed to be bolt in only. Weld in the connectors though.

Re: Frame tie-in
 

I have found that the bolt in connectors work better to weld in than the weld in type. I think the bolt in are made to fit a litle bit better so there aren't big gaps to have to fill. I would also recomend installing solid body mounts at the same time.