another 200 question
 

What would make it basically pump the fluid out of the vent tube(this one is near bellhousing). It is fresh and Ultrabell is installed if that matters. Chrome pan also

Re: another 200 question
 

Sounds like to much fluid, the after market locking dip sticks are not real accurate. Better to have to much then to little, run a tube from the over flow vent to a catch tank. Gary Stinnet sells a nice one.

Randy Wells
I/S 5628

Re: another 200 question
 

The venting system has passages that run through the pump . It is critical that the pump cover and pump body have flat surfaces with no burrs . The bolts need to be torqued to specs . Also some aftermarket trans recalibrations run too much line pressure , and that could cause cross channel leaks into the venting system . Probably best to relocate the vent to the back of the case , and plug the bellhousing vent . If that's not possible , add a hose on to the vent tube and run that down to a catch bottle .

Re: another 200 question
 

I gave up on attempting to baffle the vent hole through the pump .There's just too much fluid flying off the direct drum , at the the RPMs these things see, in race cars.
As Russ said , I move the vent to the rear. There's a flat area up top that had a vent on the very early models. You can tap a hole to 1/8th pipe and add a fitting and contain any fluid easier there.
Pull the tube out of the case up front, and J-B weld it up.

Re: another 200 question
 

Mark, my question is why did this start. It did not do it before. Only change was eshift vb to Sepanek manual vb and added an ultrabell. Bell is not touching case but there are 3 tabs sticking out by pump that I had to touch with a grinder, maybe pump is not seating all the way?

Re: another 200 question
 

go to https://www.turboaction.com/ and read tech tip #12

Re: another 200 question
 

If it's leaking that bad on jack stands, it's possible that it's not aeration splash out the vent. Some other areas to check:

If your case is painted, soda blast the case and then dye test the area around the cooler lines for unseen cracks.

Use a depth mike to measure the pump bolt hole depth with the bell installed. A bolt that is to long may prevent to pump from sealing.

Check your front end play and compare it to your pre-teardown number. A number less than pre-teardown number would indicate something out of place which could prevent the pump from seating fully. A side note, endplay should be checked with the transmission hanging by the case. If you don't have a roll over fixture, you can mount the transmission to an engine stand. Secure the engine stand ears to the pan rail.

Remove the pump and check the gasket for cuts or tears. You should also be able to see the case impression on the gasket if the pump was seated fully.

The TA valve bodies employ the use of dual feeding the direct clutch. There should be a set screw in the reverse passage of the case, directly behind the pump. Does your new valve body also dual feed? Did the set screw need to be removed? Was a set screw installed in another passage? Is the set screw inserted far enough to be below the surface? If your new valve body uses the high gear portion of the direct clutch only, was the direct drum drilled for the venting the reverse portion of the clutch?

Re: another 200 question
 

If you changed to a valve body with dual high clutch apply and the original wasn't dual apply, the outer high clutch seal may not be installed. This would flood the vent big time.

Jim Mantle V/SA 6632

Re: another 200 question
 

I had this happen on 1 of my Metrics and sent it back to my Trans man If I remember correctly he had upped the pump pressure too much-after I got it back it did not leak anymore