Red Lights
 

Loooking for advice on slowing down my car's reaction times as cheaply as possible.

I've already adjusted all the delay built into my Biondo trans brake button and the launch rpm all the way down to 3000 and still tend to go red...and it sure didn't help to replace a failing SFI flexplate with that thicker Reactor plate.

The car is a Super Stock clone 800hp FE 68 mustang, c6 with a 5000 rpm convertor, 4.56 gears and 32x14 tires, 28" tall fronts to increase rollout...but it pretty much just picks the tires straight up.

What's your vote on the next cost-effective step?

Re: Red Lights
 

Stage as shallow as possible, and drop your front tire pressue in 2 pound increments until it stops red lighting. No coke, asprin, advil or coffee-cafeen of any type.

Re: Red Lights
 

I agree with Jeff "No coke, asprin, advil or coffee-cafeen of any type."
You might try blocking your view of the first and possibly the second bulbs and leave off just the bottom bulb.
You could also try putting as much travel in the front suspension as possible to keep the tire in the beam a little longer.

Re: Red Lights
 

Just as the others have already stated and take maybe a pound out of the rear tires to get them to wrinkle a little more. What are your tire pressures?

Re: Red Lights
 

drop to 2500rpm if it works, you've got a decision to make(replace the torque convertor)

Re: Red Lights
 

Thanks all. Yes, I watch my metabolism (cafine, etc.) and stage shallow. The front shocks (competition engineering) already have more travel than O.E replacements.

But there lies a possibility - the shocks are real old, and since I've encountered a need to keep adusting the rear shocks to go straight, even replaced them - I think the fronts are to be replaced this week.

Also tried the front tire pressure thing, but it wasn't till last week that I tried the rear tire pressure/wrap up plan...I think you're right, but with other inconsistant variables, results not great, will try further tests ASAP.

Sorry it took so long to post a reply, I really appreciate your input.

Re: Red Lights
 

Be careful staging too shallow, rememeber the tires are round. They are biggest at the the center, so you could be "hopping the beams" If the car is pulling the tires up that quick, pulling from the center of the tire will increase the amount of tire in the beam.

Also, look at the suspension points in the rear. You can change the instant center with ladder bars or 4 link and reduce the lift to the front end.

Just a couple of suggestions....good luck.

Ron
396V S/C

Re: Red Lights
 

Bill,,,please let us know what works for you when you get it figured out. Believe me, theres lots of us out here trying to solve the same issue. I've got a '68 Nova with a 355/Glide combo that makes nowhere near the power you have,,but I'm redlighting way too much. I too have the Biondo Terminator button, with all the shims out by now, and have my front tires down to 25 lbs. for a bigger footprint, dropped my 2 step down to 3800 rpms and am just flickering the stage beam and still going .020-.050 red.
The idea of the Terminator button is to eliminate the "guessing" when the last yellow goes on,, meaning you should be able release the button as soon as you see the last flash of yellow light, but its not working for me. With the LED lights now in use, I thought we'd never have this problem.
Heck,,I'm 58 years old,,,I'm not supposed to have reflexes like this, and its driving me nuts. Its enough to make you start thinking about footbraking or buying a delay box! I haven't tried using a blinder yet, but I guess I'm going to have to try it.
Good luck,,,Danny Durham

Re: Red Lights
 

I will drop 3 lbs. out of the fronts and 1/2 lb. out of the back for first round. Sometimes I will leave it out if the lights are good but if the nerves begin to settle I'll start putting air back in. :eek: Just crazy I guess. Footbraking with a 2 step.

Jeff

Re: Red Lights
 

http://www.fastronixsolutions.com/Wi...20Selector.htm

This might help, it's adjustable in 100 RPM incraments.