Newbie with newbie question
 

Hey Everyone,

Hope this post finds everyone well, building cars, going fast (or slow) and winning rounds.

I was wondering what Stock Eliminator class has the least amount of entries typically?

I used to bracket race way back in the day and have been toying around with the idea of building a car for Stock Eliminator.

I don't need to go fast but would like the opportunity to at least go some rounds and not have to worry about too many heads up races.

Any and all responses welcome.

I would be in the Division 7 area. But if the stars align for sure would like to get the chance at a National event too.

Thanks a bunch!

-E

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

You haven't asked enough questions..............yet!

What kind of cars do you like? have?
What have you got to spend?
When you bracket race, do you prefer/are you better at chasing or being chased?
What are your mechanical skills like?
Are you going to build or buy a car?

It's a sorry thing to say but many Bracket Racers start out with good intentions to build a S/SS car and eventually run into issues that keep them from finishing the project.

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

Thanks, Billy!

Your reputation as someone in the know means a lot that you’d take the time to respond.

I have too many cars right now. Everything from broke down vans in the desert to a P71 Crown Vic with a 150 shot of nitrous and gears (which is my daily driver).

Selling them ALL off to finance some racing.

But the cars I’m selling aren’t on the approved list otherwise I might build one of them up.

I can chase or be chased. Don’t have a preference and my win to loss ratio back in the day was pretty much equal in both of those situations.

Cheaper builds and dime rockets are more appealing than more expensive builds.

But if there is a class in Stock Eliminator that isn’t that well populated but might take a bit of money to build for I’m okay with that.

I’d honestly rank my mechanical skills as about average for most racers.

Probably more competent than 50 percent with another 50 percent being more competent than me.

But I’m not looking to bust out a laptop and do that type of tuning you see nowadays on shows like Street Outlaws and feel more comfortable with older school tech.

Although I’m always looking to learn new things so it’s not like I’d be opposed to that just not currently in my wheelhouse.

I do like “driving” though so I’d be comfortable in a stick class even though I know I’d be giving up some consistency most likely.

Want to have some fun and be able to go some rounds.

Don’t wanna be the one and out guy.

Although that probably will happen for a bit till I get this sorted and dialed in.

Thanks!

-E

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

Eric
Check your private message’s

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

You might look at some of the quilifing sheets listed on drag race central in the past history of years at the tracks you will race at . There you will see which classes are loaded with cars or not loaded and how fast you will need to be . Welcome to stock ...

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

and another thing that you might do is subscribe to "Nitro Joe's".

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

If you want to be in a class with few participants, you need to get this notion out of your head right away. Urban legend, as far as I'm concerned.
I'm guessing you don't remember Alan Peters ;-)

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

I'd just try to make sure you pick a combo with a V-8, weather swings affect lower hp engines more, which leads to inconsistency.

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

Cool... cool... thanks for all the responses... and ideas... and places to look for info too.

Thx guys!

-E

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

Eric, if you can buy an existing class car or existing roller. I’m building one from scratch and it’s probably running 30% to 40% more that way. Everything is costing more than you think it should. The other BIG problem is supply chain, I can’t get parts in a timely manner nor can I get work that I can not do such as paint, done in a reasonable time.
A lot of guys on here mentioned not to build from scratch, maybe I should have listened!
I built a super-street car from scratch and a super-gas car from a roller so I thought I could tackle a class car. It’s become a humbling process.

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

I have a C10 1986 Chevy truck I would part with. It runs well with a v6 or some racers use a V8 and both quality well with stick or auto. How ever you go have fun and good luck.

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

Cool... cool... will seriously consider buying instead of building.

Gonna get my ducks in a row and see what's what in the next couple months.

Thanks for the pointers and direction everyone.

Appreciated!

-E

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

Glad to see some new persons interested in our sport. Your experience bracket racing certainly won't hurt you at all. Probably the easiest way to start out is to buy a used race car as a roller. It can't be modified in some way to render it illegal as to the body or other things that would have to be changed back to a state of legality before you could start building it.Sometimes, the ideal situation is to start with a used race car that would fit a class you're comfortable with and could be obtained for the right price. Motors,transes,converters, gears.etc. are pretty readily available. Starting with a user-friendly combination will get you out there, and you can gain good seat time. It's also easier to start out in a not real populated class so that you don't have to worry about heads up races too often.Also, some combos are a lot more user friendly and can be tuned and sorted out to last a lot more rounds between re freshening and that helps you develop tuning skills and getting the hang of driving it.There's lots of cars out there, many show up for sale from time to time and you can choose one from a pool of race cars. Welcome to the fold, have fun, and enjoy the process.

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

(edit)
I'd just try to make sure you pick a combo with EFI , weather swings affect lower hp engines more, which leads to inconsistency.

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

pm me i have a QRT/SA car id sell its in vegas now.

captain

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

If you're not competant at carb tuning to conditions then by all means go EFI (still run a V-8, and more stroke is desirable too).

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

Whatever you say, JA
I'm sure you speak from experience.
Me? I just make it up as I go...

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

I was going to come back here and recommend building your own middle to low class car for the experience.
But this Elky would be perfect for you out here.
There are a few FFFFords out here but I think Q/SA is pretty safe.
New paint,
Trans built by a great guy,
Engine,..right on the money, and legal

Better jump on this one...

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

HA, i wanted to build a stocker from a rolling chassis (junk yard free), sold the boat, had a $7000 dollar budget, $30,000 later hit the track this summer, started April 2021

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

I wasn't referring to you directly even though I quoted, was for the original poster.

My apologies if you were offended in any way.

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

Not a problem. All opinions welcome here.
My point was that I've been involved with a couple of V6 EFI cars that were deadly consistent.
Also , almost any V8 combo is going to get the o/p involved in heads up runs, which he is trying to avoid for now. ;-)

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

And ALSO a two barrel carb 1981 Ford Escort.

I remember seeing that on the cover of National Dragster back in 1986.

It made me finally believe ALL THINGS WERE POSSIBLE!

Reading about that actually got me into Bracket Racing.

Mark's win motivated a lot of dreamers to stop dreaming.

And start doing.

-E

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

Going back to my first response to your thread, what do YOU want to do?
Does the type of car not matter?
If you sell all of your other stuff does it give you enough money to go shopping for a car?
If you're looking a the less populated classes then you're going to wind up in a lower classed car or in a stick car.
If you like building your own stuff, there's an awful lot of personal satisfaction in building a car especially when it's a unique combo. The down side will be not being able to go racing right away. If that's what you want then you're going to have to buy and pay for it. Another Racer's knowledge and labor isn't cheap.

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

Yes, that deal did spawn a few more Escorts.The majority of them were automatics though.
The rest of the story is that we started eliminations on Saturday and finished on Monday. We did not change the dial in once!
I truly believe part of that consistency was due to the stick shift.

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

Ahh yes, 4 & 6 cyl. classes not heavily populated.

Wonder if there's something the guy could rent that would run the number so he could get his feet wet?

Re: Newbie with newbie question
 

Stock and SuperStock cars are getting thin and scattered around the country especially with the high number of classes, so I wouldn't worry about building to avoid heads up class runs against hot cars/drivers. Learn to read the Stock Car Guide at the NHRA Competition link at this site. Find a car that has a competitive fit and appeals to you and start with Stock. Read the rule book carefully and ask question after question here. I tried to build right into SS with my first race car and stumbled over rule interpretations. I love my bracket car but it will never carry the SS flag.