Off season maintenance/upgrades
 

For some this has already started, for others it will be starting soon. What is on your list for this offseason, as the start of the new season is creeping up on us.

For me it consists of taking engine and trans out, checking bearings, touching up heads, going thru the trans. upgrading to 5/8th wheel studs.
Normal wheel bearing, brake maintenance, and some wiring work.
Also upgraded to a trailer based weather station. Then we will go back on the dyno before we put it back in the car.

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Had the engine upgraded with new crank and other little things.

Most important think that I did was to clean the under chassis of the car and while doing so, found a split in the right frame rail. also found a crack on the weld for the rear engine plate.
I do this every year, never know what you can come up with.

car now in the trailer for the winter and when it coms out, new heim joint on the four link and a wax job.

Bob Lasko

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Ford 302 with N351 heads in a '68 Mustang coupe. Repaired glass hood and fabricated trick hinges to make it hinged and removable with no tools. Updated electrical system to make it coherent to tech. Upgraded to manual brakes with pressure gauge. Cleaned heads and replaced 250/750 springs with more sane 210/520s. New bearings all around-triple checked clearances.Reinstalled Crane cam with 351 HO firing order. New file fit rings. Got my high stall converter to fit. Trans brake solinoid shorted out last year, need to get to that. Going to add an air shifter to hit the 1-2 only so I can keep my hands on the wheel more. Want a better gas pedal to go with my better brakes. I spend half the winter taking stuff off and half looking for it to put back on.

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Adding more Classic Insturments in the 40* to 220* F range.

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some new wheels here

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I had the clock turned back to where my Camaro looks better than the day I got it almost 50 years ago. Also dropping new power plant between the frame rails. Should be fun.

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For me, I upgraded to a new tow vehicle. I just took delivery of it 2 weeks ago. 2022 Ford F350 with the 6.7L Power Stroke diesel. Getting it ready to tow the trailer with getting the bed hitch plate and in bed wiring installed. Plus an exhaust and air intake upgrade over the stock parts to hopefully increase the mileage. Graphics to go on next month.

Ken Kopecky

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Busy taking apart a 2016 Mustang to install a 7.50 cage and converting to a 3-Link rear suspension for N/A Factory Stock.

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looking for to find hp

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Mostly to my execution of a plan. You can't win without it.

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Dont forget Belts and Helmet, I ordered those today for the pink car. I will check Dumbo to see what he needs.

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Many good suggestions! One very important part of every race car are the shocks, front and rear. if you have not had them serviced by the manufacturer, I would recommend sending them to Randy at Fastshocks. The shocks play a very critical part of how your car works and the ability to adjust to the varying track conditions we see through out the season.

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One thing I find most racers overlook is changing brake fluid .
Unlike our street cars that usually see use every day, our race cars are subject to long periods of setting unused ,and many times stored in the trailer or a cold garage .
During storage the fluid can absorb moisture which will contaminate the fluid and cause corrosion and rust to form in the system.
I used to service and inspect several SCCA raced Corvettes . SCCA required the fluid to be changed before EVERY event , and believe me the fluid looked like crap every time .
Most times you can suck out the fluid from the master cylinder ,refill it and just crack open the bleeder screws one at a time and bleed out most of the fluid by gravity , and then do a finish bleed.
Use a high quality DOT4 fluid like Wilwood EXP 600 PLUS or Motul 600 or 660.

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Hi Tom, just curious, how did the SCCA verify that it was changed?

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Dave there is a inspection report that the inspecting mechanic had to fill out and verify that the fluid was changed.
I was told by the owners that the tech inspectors sometimes removed the reservoir cap and used a test strip to indicate the condition of the fluid.
We used similar test strips at the dealership I worked for to test the corrosiveness of brake fluid .
When Antilock brakes became common the manufacturers recommended changing the fluid every two years or 30K miles because old ,contaminated fluid would damage the antilock pump and control valves,

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Changed to a removable cross member so I can remove the oil pan now.

Steve Teeter STK/SS 620

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New helmet. Pretty crazy stuff! Might put the 200 back in.

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Fuel System maintenance?

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Sent my clutch assembly and bellhousing off for re-certification.

Kelly Lane
4991 Stock

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After breaking the motor we are updating with a new build, changing engine management system. It could be a fun season. Tom

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I have a grid, and a Sportsman RacePak. I bought a spool of wire. All I need now is for those that think you can hook the 2 of them up to have my car run what I want it too. You don't need to send an email I would prefer you post it here. Thanks in advance Barry

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I need to see that too Barry.

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I stand corrected, my Racepak Sportsman can be plugged into a Grid. But it takes a specific cable you need to get from Racepak that will plug the Grid into the V-net port on the Racepak. But if we are talking traction control then you need an ARC module to plug into the Grid. You pick timing retard amount and RPM limits where you want it to take timing out. And if the tires keep spinning you set an RPM limit just above that. But an ARC module isn't legal for ANYTHING in NHRA.

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and of course you'll mention that you have one and where you've hidden it when you fill out your on-line tech card for your on-your-honor tech inspection.

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Billy not sure if he has a clue. Maybe I have the wrong color wire? You can get another MSD product that I believe will hook up to most of their ignition boxes not just the grid that will adjust your timing based off of drive shaft speed. That box is illegal to use in Stock and Super Stock. If you want to retard off the line why not just use an MSD retard with a switch. I don't normally have a problem hooking up so I have never used a retard (Driver not included). If your going to spot drop why not just set your retard up for a certain RPM. BP

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I do not, never have , never will. That is beyond my wallet. This isn't a mod hiding in an ignition box. These are off the shelf products from MSD and Racepak. We've been discussing this in a few different threads like it is some black magic. Its not. The module is Part # 7761. NHRA knows about it and its in the Accepted Products list as only PROHIBITED. It is for sale on the retail websites. RACEPAK and MSD has this info on their youtube channel. Its all over YB as well. I only have a legal Sportsman data recorder. VM-T009 is the part # for the Grid to data recorder cable.

YES, an MSD ARC module

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJaItvplMUQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1w2u8WsHbec

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Dave, I wasn't insinuating that you had one. I was using a generic "you". I should have clarified that.

Barry, Dave has "a clue".

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I understand Billy. I just wanted to be sure Anybody else reading this knows that.

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Well Barry, that's the way you do it.

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Dave Not trying to insult you also. I already knew how to set it up. But you need to use parts that are not allowed in Stock or Super Stock. Trying to make a point with everyone that thinks just because you use a Grid or a Race Pak that it's easy to cheat if you so wanted to. I'm sure NHRA's Tec department has had several conversations through the years with MSD and other companies that build ignition components. That's why there is a list of ignition products we can or can't use. BP

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Nhra can and does check for the arc module. I have been checked 3 times
It’s done on the return road just after a run

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Time seems to be flying by since the finals at Pomona. The down time is short out west here. With a busy schedule (and expensive) coming quick. Pomona followed by Phoenix. Then a double header at Phoenix to start the division 7 year. One of my good friends tested his tranny shield at the last race in Las Vegas at the National race. Shipping and parts take much longer to get right now.

Paul Haszlauer
7019 C/SA

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I’ve been off for several years due to work injury.

But I’ve started collecting parts. Going to change cam/lifters to solid roller. New headers and Performance Welding merge collectors, swapping the TH350 for a metric, oil accumulator, oil pan going to Steph’s for internal work, possibly a windage screen as well, rewire and clean up some stuff, finally going to get wide band and the data recorder working. A bunch of maintenance (valve springs, tires ect) already leaked the engine it’s still good to go. I’ve got all that stuff here except transmission. Probably put it on at least chassis Dyno and some other stuff. Got sorta bad news from Dr today. So I won’t be out in the spring as I had hoped. But I’m determined to run a couple divisional and hopefully a couple bracket races in my other car. With the goal being to get enough grade points this year and next to be able to enter Indy 2023. If I can’t get back in the car myself. I’ve decided instead of selling. I’m going to try being a car owner. And let someone else drive it. Not crazy about that. But don’t want to quit.