Lug Nuts
I am putting 5/8" studs in the rear axles, they currently have 7/16 and I can see some issues with them, my Centerline's, have a 60 degree conical seat. What do you all use for lug nuts, shank type or the conical seat type. Would have to enlarge the holes in the rim if I went with shaft lugs.
Randy Wells I/S 5628 |
Re: Lug Nuts
Randy, measure the wheel lug nut hole because it may already be 5/8.
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Randy Wells I/S 5628 Randy |
Re: Lug Nuts
Something that hardly ever seems to get mentioned about the typical 5/8" wheel drive studs that a lot of us use is that the shoulder that fit's into and locates the wheel is actually 11/16" in diameter. This is the same diameter as the shank on a standard 7/16" or 1/2" threaded straight shank lug nut made for racing wheels. The 5/8" part of the stud is just the thread size. So if you want to use 5/8" drive studs, the holes in the wheels need to be 11/16" diameter. If the wheel is made for use with conical lug nuts it may not work with the 5/8" studs unless it's drilled out and has enough material left to bear on the stud without deforming under hard acceleration.
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Randy Wells I/S 5628 |
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Something to think about, cost of 5/8 studs vs repair cost and body work.
When I broke my 1/2 studs it ruined a 71 Cuda bumper, painted Grill, and a gilled fender. The grill was just north of two grand. |
Re: Lug Nuts
We sheared a wheel with 1/2" studs like Larry did but were lucky and no damage to the body. I would drill wheels and put 5/8" studs if I were you.
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If you run the 1/2 inch please note that you’ll need to bring extra studs (or be fortunate enough to be racing with Mike McMahon since he’s carrying extras even though he doesn’t use them anymore, ask me how I know). Matt Rover spotted my broken studs and that’s on a SS/MA car, turns out I was about to make a run with two broken studs, which of course would have been a very costly mistake.
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I always insist on 5/8" stuff for anything more exotic than an 11 second street car.
Radial tires, manual transmissions, better track prep... It's a one time expense that's not a large $$ figure vs. what happens when you shear the small studs. |
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You guys are making me nervous. 10.0 car with trans brake and 1/2 studs for 8 years
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I think most stud breakage is due to inadequate clamping force .ie lug torque.. Plenty of fast cars on 1/2" studs for years.
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If you DO drill the wheels, wait til you get the studs. Now you are potentially looking at drilling and taping the axles,and front hubs also. On top of that, I am not aware of any sleeves made to go around the stud to sit between the wheel and stud. Just the larger nut and exterior washer. Most of the wheels I have had my hands on slip right over the "5/8" stud fairly tight tolerance. only had one a tad sloppy. Then just a half inch spacer and torque em at 85.
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I bent a set of 1/2" grade 8 on a mid to high 11 sec. car. I use steel wheels with aluminum drums (they might squirm more than steel or iron drums; don't know) and now run grade 8 bolts in 5/8". I don't torque over 120 ft lb with lubed threads; check what torque your wheels can stand.
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