Foxbody Stocker/Bracket Racer
All,
Here is what I'll be wrenching on in the coming months/years. I'll be taking this 1989 foxbody 5.0 and turning in to a bracket car for the near term and a M/S or M/SA stocker after that. I've owned this car since 1994. It was spotless when I bought it and only had 32k miles on the clock. I drove it as my D/D for about 5 years and then on/off for another 5 years, or so, as I cycled through various other D/D's and a full-on NMRA drag race car. I've always wanted to turn this car in to a racer but starting a family has meant no time for wrenching and it has lived in my garage on stands for the last 5 years only being driven once or twice a year. Nothing much special to see here. Just your run-of-the-mill 5.0 with about 120,000 miles that probably nobody on this website will much care about. She's got some rust, but is far being a piece of swiss cheese. All the usual bolt-on mustang mods have been on this car at one time or another: headers, off-road x-pipe, sub-frame connectors, U/L control arms, NOS 150hp dry kit, B&M ripper shifter, H/D cobra clutch, black magic fan, under drive pulleys, 3.73 gears, K&N, msd 6al, removed the a/c (which was stupid)., etc. On a pair of 8.5-inch slicks she went as fast as 12.21 @ 113 on the bottle at around 3400lbs w/my 225lbs in the driver seat. I'll start out with some 'before pics'. http://classracer.com/classforum/[IM...ps8293d45a.jpghttp://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps8293d45a.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps8dd637c7.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps69ed20a4.jpg |
Re: Foxbody Stocker/Bracket Racer
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psb0acdf55.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps624f4840.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps5dd06c7f.jpg Here is the 'period correct' cassette that to this day resides in the center console: http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps8a50e815.jpg |
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OK, let's get started:
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...cer/car001.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...cer/car002.jpg So now here it is......now what? |
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So here is where we're currently at:
I've pulled the exhaust, gas tank, drive shaft, and stripped the engine down to the short block. Every nut, bolt, bracket and any other type of fastener fought me tooth and nail along the way which served as a reminder as to why I so much more like working on race cars versus street cars. The trans is 4 bolts away from being dropped and the engine 2 bolts away from being hoisted out. As you can see, I've got some rust issues that I'll need to contend with. If you look closely, you can see the frame rails (next to the headers) have rusted through in typical foxbody fashion (on both sides) so I'll have to break out the cut-off wheel and remove those sections and replace. Good thing I bought that Hobart MIG over the summer!! http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps7cc288e5.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psbd7671dc.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps03286a2d.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps88625cfa.jpg |
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So my first question to you is:
Should I go the Evan Smith route and convert the car to 1993 Cobra specs? This will allow me to dump a sh#t-ton of money in to some GT-40 iron heads instead of the E7 stockers. For some reason, dumping money in to E7's just doesn't seem right so I'm leaning towards a cobra conversion. But in doing this, I'll need to also get a host of other things such as an OE cobra intake, untouched GT-40 iron heads, cobra body kit, etc., which all just adds to the cost of the project. I do love the look of the 1993 Cobras though.....wish I could just run an Cobra spec engine in my LX bodied car. I believe going the Cobra route would also change my class designation too, yes? |
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Here is the 'period correct' cassette that to this day resides in the center console:
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps8a50e815.jpg[/QUOTE] The choice in period correct music selection is spot on. Metallica's pinacle album! |
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I think the Cobra hp rating is far more advantageous, when you factor in the better heads and intakes, the problem [for me] is the fact that it's a stick only, and finding correct engine and body parts.
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You may want to pick what class you are going to run first if you are in a lower class where you dont need a rollbar that will save you alot of money and will be kinder on your suspenision parts. I think M is the break for that. Cobra route if you want to go faster higher class low 11s you will need a good stick, clutch and a 9in rear end rear suspenision renforcing. You are going to need a tranny, I take it yours has a AOD in it you will need a C4. Just some thoughts I went through when I built mine. I have a notch back and run K/SA in the high 11s.
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Just curious as to why you would need a 9" over the 8.8? Also to the OP dont scrap the 10 holes i would be interested in them if you want to sell them fairly cheap.
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Only in a stick car you need a 9in. Stick will brake axle housing and other parts, Autos are alot kinder on rear ends they dont smack the tires as hard.
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I was just curious because we have been 4.70s in the eigth with high 1 teen 60fts. Was just curious.
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Scott, I've been out of the Stocker game for awhile but I'd take the HO @ 215hp over the '93 Cobra @ 252. Take a look at the '88 Saleen: HO combo, it can make I/SA @ 2750#, and you can run an auto. Some added expense for the body kit. I haven't surfed every year of the 87-93 LX Hatch cars, but I think the Saleen is the only one that will make I/SA right now. Double check me, if you find one (12.99 factor or lower) there would be no reason to do the Saleen other than to be different. If you don't care about running the faster class then stick with what you've got.
I never broke an 8.8 in my '93 Cobra Stocker. If you were buying everything from scratch I'd go the 9" route. You've already got an 8.8, beef it up as your budget allows. It'll last forever. |
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Thanks for the replies guys! Jeff, now that is an interesting idea about the Saleen. I/SA huh? I wouldn't have to run that ugly whale tale rear wing would I? I'll have to check the rule book I guess. I've always hated that wing.
While I figure out what my goal will be for this car I was wondering what the stick shifted guys are running for clutches, flywheels, and transmissions? I really think running a stick would be make things more exciting, but ultimately wouldn't be as consistent. While I know a lot about the c4 and AOD trannies out there, I don't know a lot about the stick combos you guys use. So what are you stick guys running? |
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http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ442842923 |
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I've spent the last 45 minutes on nhraracer.com trying to hunt down the specs for Saleen mustangs and have found absolutely nothing. Where are you guys getting your info on the Saleen and its I/SA potential? Obviously, I am missing something somewhere.... |
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What are you looking for specifically? |
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Well, here's what I've been up to tonight while most of you are watch bowl games and drinking beer. LOL!
First, I pulled the T-5. (Sorry about the size and orientation of this pic. I rotated it in photobucket and when I view it in there it looks right, but not here for some reason - Yes I did save my changes in photobucket!) http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psdc2c03db.jpg Then I went after the short block. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps3eda6add.jpg I still have the car up on jack stands so I was questioning whether I'd be able to get the engine up high enough to clear the fenders and core. Turns out I had about 6 inches to spare!! Yeeeeehaaaaa!! http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps339cd93a.jpg And here is where I stopped for the night. My master bedroom is right over the garage so I didn't want the compressor to be kicking on/off too late and wake up the wife. This is what 120K miles and a few years of sitting around looks like. Before I do anything else I'm going to have to head over to Harbor Freight and pick up a parts washer. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps6656095a.jpg |
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what do you guys recommend for getting rust off the exterior surfaces of the block? Sand blast? Angle die grinder with some of those fiber surface cleaner discs?
In my experience I've been fortunate to only have worked on new racing blocks so they were always nice and clean before we painted them. I've never really had to contend with all this rust and sludge. I guess I'm spoiled. |
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I may have heads, intake and other parts for sale.
Evan |
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You probably already know this ,but other readers may not.
The rear trailing arms are bolted into sheet metal brackets on these cars. Significant beefing up and bracing is needed in those areas. |
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I'd call them trailing arm brackets.. Or if you want...... no torque boxes |
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Good luck on this project I remember when you built that nitrous renegade car back in the day that looked like a lot of fun.
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This build, however, will be all me. Well, as much as I can do by myself. That's not to say I won't be reaching out for some help from friends or guys on here once in awhile. I don't own a machine shop and I'm a novice welder so machine work and the cage will be farmed out - well, I'm undecided on the cage....I might attempt that one with some supervision and more welding practice. |
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So I went out to the garage tonight with the intention of completely pulling apart the short block.
I took off the oil pan and oil pump and turned the motor over on the stand (right side up). I heard something fall in to the drip pan on the floor and found three items. Can you guess what they are/where they came from? Keep in mind, short of swapping intakes a few times over the years, this long block has NEVER been apart! http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psb55dc408.jpg Next I took off the crank pulley and water pump. Then I tried to find the puller for the balancer. I searched allover the place before I realized that I do not own a puller!! Doh!! At that point, I lost my motivation and decided to call it a night. Better make another trip to the store to get one of those. So here's where I left it: http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...pscdaf402b.jpg I've got a parts washer ordered and on the way so once I get that balancer off I can take off the timing cover, yank the timing gear/chain and cam, and then pull apart the rotating assembly and clean it up. Typing that reminds me that I still also need to remove the spider and lifters. I will be very interested to see how much wear and tear I find in this 120k mile engine. Assuming the crank, rods, and pistons are reusable and the block looks OK I'll hone the block (ball hone - no machine shop for me unless absolutely necessary!) and clean/paint the block. Then I'll order up some ARP bolts, new bearings, new rings, new oil pan/pan gasket, rear main seal, and a new high volume oil pump. I've already got all the gaskets, new balancer, and a meziere water pump "in stock" and we'll start putting her back together. Oh yeah, the radiator has seen better days so I'll need to replace that too - which reminds me I'll need to go in the basement and dig out that electric fan. All that sure was easy to type, we'll see if it actually goes that easy. In my experience, it usually never does..... |
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If you are going to replace the rod bolts you should have the rods resized. I have done it without this step but it is not the right way to go.
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just how i like them , plain jane simple looking.nice project.have fun should be competitive.....:D
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Well guys, sorry I haven't updated in awhile. I'm between jobs right now and its taking me longer than expected to find a new one. Therefore, the race car is on the back burner. Wait, let me rephrase, spending money on the race car is on the back burner.
Lots of free and/or low-buck work can still be done but I doubt anyone wants to see pics of me sanding the car. LOL. |
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I haer ya !!!
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