Dragster Parts Choices
Hi
Just recently purchased a new unfinished nicely fabbed 240 inch tagged 6.0 hardtail chassis has a strange housing,carbon seat, stilleto box,midplate, spindles,nose, fuel cell other than that a bare chassis So I will be needing to ask for several suggestions while finishing the car so with any luck I might get some opinions from some of you on this site. Thanks in advance I need a body for the car was hoping to get some suggestions between aluminum and fibreglass ? I see s&w and Riggeal sell glass bodies and S&W also sell a aluminum kit but also more designed for there S&W chassis which I think mine is close I am told mine is off a Mark Williams plans I also see carbon bodies but not sure if the price justifies the weight savings........not sure which class to even run yet super comp....maybe Top Dragster Any pros and cons ? Thanks |
Re: Dragster Parts Choices
In either of the classes you're talking about (SC/TD) weight is not a crucial issue. They are far more about consistency. If you were running in Comp, then... maybe.
I have run both an aluminum and a fiberglass body on a dragster. I chose the fiberglass body on the new car because it looks so nice without all the seams. It looks great, fits well, I like it. However, it cannot be put on or removed by one person. Two is doable, three is best. This is fine at the track ("hey, buddy, got a minute?"), but at home, alone, trying to get something done, it can be a pain ("honey? I need your help with the body again"). For my builder (Joe Monden) aluminum vs. fiberglass were the same price, so I did it on style. Carbon fiber was an option, but a pricey one. Didn't see the need. You still need two (three) people to get it on/off, and as I said above, weight is not the issue in these classes. I can't comment on the various options for builders you mention, but I can say that they key difference between aluminum and fiberglass is the question of how many people you need. That's something only you can decide. |
Re: Dragster Parts Choices
Thanks Chris that info helps I thought the nice smooth look looked good also
Have to think about the on off thing I could see that being a bit of a pain at times Ran a funny before always a issue if people were not around I will have to check difference in shipping price also I need to install pedals also was looking at pro werks set up and there adjustable brackets any ideas ? Also any feedback on a decent shorty dragster glide with brake ? probably first year or so we will look at running super comp type times so the car will make somehwere 600 to 750 range so I guess a trans that will work within that range Also know a guy selling out with a Neal Chance convertor any thoughts ? He was running bbc in a rail also said 5500 stall Thanks in advance for any feedback |
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For adjustability in a dragster, it's easy, just drill a bunch of holes in the floor at regular intervals and use floor mounted pedals. Just make sure you have some meat underneath to bolt to. Our car is used by me (6'2" bumping into 300lbs) and my daughter (5'1" - 125lbs) and we adjust between us by moving pedals, dash, steering, seat, etc. all within 1/2 hour. I have two shorty powerglides, one is an ATI (and upgraded locally), one purchased from Transmission Specialties. Both are bulletproof, the TS one is in the car now, the ATI case is back at Reid getting a recert. Whoever you choose, make sure you get the 1.80 straight-cut gears -- much more reliable. We're over 1000hp, so we're north of your power requirements. Both trannys have Transmission Specialties transbrakes on them, they have been very good for us. Converters are VERY personal. I don't know any topic that gets more people more wound up than converters. I know people who change them like I change underwear, others who do nothing but curse at their converter, some insist one versus the other and so on. I don't know anything about Chance. We use Continental Converters (talk to Chris), and love them. Mechanical diode, so they lock up nicely, we've found them very consistent. I know others who swear by Hughes. Lots of choices, just as many opinions. Hope this helps, Chris |
Re: Dragster Parts Choices
Thanks again Chris much appreciated
I just looked at the wilwood pedal (I never think about them for pedals) it looks good you say two masters for front and back so is this for 4 caliper rear brakes ? How high off the floor is your tunnel ? 1.80 straight cut thanks turbo 350 input ? What rear gears do you suggest ? and what size of tire ? Thanks for your time and answers much appreciated |
Re: Dragster Parts Choices
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Haven't measured the tunnel, but my guess is maybe 3" tall? It's a glove box on top of a tunnel for fuel/wiring lines. Rear gears and tires go together as you know. Depends on your car, your power, etc. You want to be headed through the lights just short of red line. I'm running 4.10 rear gears with 33.5/17-16s but again, we have much more engine than it sounds like you do. You need to solve this for yourself, but 4.10 is very common. |
Re: Dragster Parts Choices
Thanks again for the info
Yes good choice on the brakes with the family Yes I have not built my motor yet so I will wait a bit for gear choice as knowing myself things will probably change in that department but I am trying to restrain somewhat So do you run a racepak ? and if so do you run there dash ? Thanks again |
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Re: Dragster Parts Choices
Wow sounds pretty cool lots of info.......lots of sensors wow
so you run a efi set up ? Do you run div. 6 ? Thanks |
Re: Dragster Parts Choices
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Chris |
Re: Dragster Parts Choices
My 2cents. With the horsepower you are starting with, Top Dragster is out, plus your car is kinda short for the power you will need in TD. Back to your horsepower, I would think about a 1:69 gear in the trany with a 4:30 in the rear. I like 15 inch rear wheels as it gives you more sidewall in the tire to work with. In a swing arm or four link etc it may not be as important but with a hard tail I want any available tool for adapting to tracks.
I agree that a one peice glass body is the cats meow but for the reasons Chris mentions, I would go to a multi peice body, also the Aluminum option might work best for you as your car sounds one off possibley. Stock noses, dash etc are available and I would set the dash and pedals where I want them then the nose, fill the body in from there. Also dont forget fast access to electronics is a round saver in a pinch. Convertors, easy start with a Hughes 7SC, for super comp with mild to 1000 HP it is the right convertor, however if the Chance convertor is the right price you can make that work for SC now and TD later. Do not dive into TD, SC will be more of a challenge than you can possible imagine. Do not forget you will get more seat time local bracket racing and recomend that you get some education and car sorting out done there first. Starting out, it is hard to beat a Racedata dash, 500+- just saw one on race junk for 300, replaces all your gauges lets you replay one run, cleans the dash up a ton. While were on your dash, Get a K&R wiring kit and delay box, a chipmunk could wire the car (that would be me). All you will have on the dash is a switch box, delay box and Race data. Send me your email and I can send you some pics if you like. There are alot well intentioned folks without the best ideas in this world. Chris is a solid racer with sound ideas. Good luck racing and dont forget that having fun and meeting all the great people out there is the best part of Drag Racing, Jeff |
Re: Dragster Parts Choices
Thanks Chris and Jeff for the replies and input very much appreciated
Hey Chris do you run the division races ? Hey Jeff sure any pictures would be a big help my e-mail is funnycar@hotmail.ca Thanks again guys for the input Find that interesting also using more tire sidewall with the hardtail |
Re: Dragster Parts Choices
so is a 240 car considered to short for a top dragster ?
Thanks |
Re: Dragster Parts Choices
In division 3, 6.70 has not made the field. To go say 210 mph the car is going to want 280", you can fool a four link to some extent into thinking its longer but most guys at that speed want the lighter weight slip joint cars. It may be the finish line mph game but to go thru all the work and not quilify is less than fun. I expect this year you will start to see more and more blower cars with less and less big inch nitrious motors. It is getting to be a racer needs to run 6.50 to know that they will qualify. Also to be competative at those speeds is not for everyone. Also with the alcohol classes getting less competition and shrinking fields and events, the TD/TS cars are going to be the Big Show so to speek at Div races without alcohol cars. I look for the fields to open up maybe to let some 7.00 cars have a shot, they could go to 64 car fields but that will vary by division and participation.
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Re: Dragster Parts Choices
Thanks for the pics Jeff Looks good nice and neat
Ya looks like they are flyin pretty good if 6.70 is not making the cut I will have to see how serious I want to get but at this point I don`t know if I have the time or energy to pursue that I am thinking super comp may best suit the chassis and my time, etc Just go build a nice car have some fun and be competitive Think that would work for me Thanks for your input much appreciated |
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Jeff is very right, I would focus on SC and/or SP to get my feet wet, if I were you. We used to run a hardtail, and the choice of the tire is important. And another discussion entirely :) |
Re: Dragster Parts Choices
Rory
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