Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Hi all, yes a newbie...

I have been racing since 2001 at local bracket races close to home.
Hopefully next year my wife and I will be able to travel and do some racing.

I have been racing my current car a 1992 Ford Mustang Convertible for about 5 years now and Im ready to move up to some class racing.

I need an understanding of how it works.
My car is a stock bottom end car with heads cam and intake, full interior with a cage and racing seats.

would there be any class suited for this combo or will I need to change somethings,
I appologize for this being "Simple" but Im just curious what the car would be eligable for.

BTW I searched for the "Class racing for Idiots" thread but couldn't find it.....

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

You're car would probably be more suited for Super Stock, the way it sounds now.

In Stock, the cam has to retain the factory lift for the engine. Racing seats are not permitted (I believe the wording in the Rulebook is something to the effect of "must be correct seat for the year of the car"). Stock allows no head porting, and head must be of correct year/correct casting number for the car that is claimed. Same with the intake. Hope this helps a bit.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

lol............................................... ............

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Mike,
Wouldn't you think that if his car isn't tubbed, he'd be better off to get some stock seats, and use his short block as a starting point for a Stock engine? Super Stock is a really big step for most people, and the stock pieces for his car and engine are fairly easily found since so many have been taken off and set aside.


There is no "Class racing for idiots" thread. Since being an idiot for even considering class racing is sort of assumed, there is no need for a specific thread.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

True. Also, if the car is a 302, it could run somewhere around SS/M and probably run well with a smaller tire, without tubbing it.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

The guy he really needs to talk to is Gary Summers, from around Bowling Green KY. Gary runs a couple of the Fox body cars, at least one is a convertible, although I don't think Gary runs that particular year.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Thanks for the info....
The car also has a C4 Automatic (Not the AOD it came with)

and LOL at Alan,
There is no "Class racing for idiots" thread. Since being an idiot for even considering class racing is sort of assumed, there is no need for a specific thread

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

I also have an 1982 Mustang, factory 4 speed with stock 302 in place.
would that be better fitted for a class?

car currently set up to run UMTR Street Stick.
all it needs is factory seats, the car does have another carb and not the 2 barrell carb/intake it came with.

Is there any where I can get information, I have talked to a couple of guys to buy their old rule books but no one deliveries:rolleyes:

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

hopefully Evan Smith will chime in here, he knows a ton about the fox body stockers. The fox body mustangs can be very good stockers for sure, but there is alot to learn. the best advice I can give you is to go to a divisional race and talk to some people. you'd be surprised how friendly and willing to help most class racers are. we all bicker back and forth on here quite a bit, but most of us would loan parts to the guy we had to race next round, just the way it is. Also, you can pick up a lot more talking with people when there is a stocker nearby to look at, than just generalizing over the internet.

Alan is also right, we're all nuts for doing this. But we do it because its a challenge. Another few things to remember about stock eliminator; Its like going to a magic show, what you see is amazing, but what you don't see is even more so. Also there is a lot of reading between the lines in the rulebook. Not from a legal vs no legal standpoint, but if you read the rule book and built a motor that fit the rules, but wasn't done with some assistance from people who know something about stock racing, you might be disappointed in the initial performance.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Are you an NHRA member ? If so you can download the rule book on their site.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

You have to buy the new printed rulebook separately now. If you are a member you get it online as a file.

What you need to look at, other than the rulebook, are the Stock Car Classification Guide, and the Engine Blueprint Specifications. Those are found on the NHRA website, in the drop down menu under "Competition".

Be aware that in Stock and Super Stock, a car that you have, or a car that you really like, may not necessarily be a good car to race.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Either of your Mustangs could be built into Stockers, Brian Thompson from Div. 6 is the curret P/SA record holder with a 89 Mustang GT convertible (3600+ lb Fox Mustang!) As for your 82, that is a 2 barrel engine, the 83-84 4 barrel would likely be a better choice, the 85 like I run is basically the same engine, as the 83-4, but has a hyd roller cam. All the 79-93 Fox Mustangs are fairly easy to convert to a different year, mainly front nose and tail lights, and the 87-93`s have different dashboards. The nice thing about any of the Fox Mustangs, carbed or EFI, is that the factory cores (heads,intakes, carbs etc) are very common, easy to find,& cheap to buy. The stock 8.8 rearend is fairly stout, with a good selection of ratios. I wouldn`t waste my time fooling with the stock T5 or AOD trans though.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Is your car an LX or a GT? Its NHRA rated at 220HP

Here are the classes your car fits

stock if LX
M/SA 14*220+170=3250#
you could also run L or N. add or subtract 110#

stock if GT
O/SA 15*220+170 =3470#
n-subtract 110#, P add 220# (goes to 1# weight break after O/SA)

need full interior including dash, correct seats, C-4 is about your only choice for trans, 9" max wide tire, heads and intake and cam that will pass, also need a valve to drain fuel so you can provide tech a fuel sample after the run. If you are going to run the stock bottom end, I'd at least get a good SFI balancer. If not, I'd get an engine diaper.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

You can view the IHRA Rulebook here:

http://www.mydigitalpublication.com/...on/?m=1203&l=1

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

If you've installed a tubular K-member you will have to put the stock one back in.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Awesome information,

the reason im going with the fox mustangs is because I have great consistant cars, and plenty of back up parts.

I seen some class racing and I really enjoyed it and thought it would be fun.
My cars both have cages, both and racing seats, all the safety equipment and no junk.
and the vert is heavy...

Im subscribed to this thread.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Go out in your backyard and dig a 6 foot hole and put all your money in it along with a second mortage, cover up and water and next spring you'll have a Stocker!

JimR

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Nice LOL...

Im currently still wanting to do this badly although I am having great luck foot brake racing right now..

Im currently looking at a 1988 Mercury Cougar...

but need to see if that chassis is excepted.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Yes... The Cougar is in the NHRA Stock Car Classification guide.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

I currently own a 1983 Mercury cougar...

where exactly are you finding the excepted chassis at?

I really want to run a truck... lol......

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

honestly, you may be better off buying a stocker already done, or look into one of ihra's crate motor or pure stock class. or like someone already said dig a BIG hole...
either way, good luck

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

http://www.nhra.com/competition/classification.aspx

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

I guess i'll stick to foot brake and UMTR stick racing.....

i will however keep my eyes open for a nice stocker..

I would love to get into a Thunderbird or cougar though...

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

another stupid newbie question,

I currently have a 1998 Ford F-150 set up for NMRA Tough Truck (Open Comp style Racing)

other than gears and induction it's stock,

would that fall into any classes,

There are only 2 pro am events close to me,
Mountain Park Dragway and London Dragway,
so it's hard for me to buy or build a car, (even though if I had one I would travel more) but I was thinking if my little truck would fit in somewhere it would be perfect,
besides what else do you do with your old tow trucks LOL....

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

another thing,

I don't see the truck on the list provided earlier on this thread for accepted chassis,

but I would think if Rangers, Dakota's S-10's are allowed this one should be aswell?

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

You also need to decide how deep you want to run under the index, that will also set a cap for how much money will go in your project. I will let the vet's chime in on all the other info. Just keep in mind that since your bracket racing, it not necessary to be fast. There's many dangerous drivers out there that have cars that don't go even 50 under the index(Dan Fletcher and Anthony Bertozzi come to mind at the moment). The super and modified classes seem to be a good place to hide with index slow combos. Maybe you could put together a SS/CS car. You only need to run 9.80's.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

other than gears and induction it's stock
The intake and carb or throttle body must be stock, but in your case ford did not include any truck spec's to nhra so it can not run.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Thanks for the reply Bob...

I think I will just keep an eye open for a car already close to being a "Stock" car.

Thanks.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Where do you live Hitman? I'm close to London& Clay City,I went to 4 UMTR last year got rained out Clay City &Owingsville,got to race at Ohio Valley & stick shift natl's at edgewater.
Mike Taylor 3601

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

[QUOTE=The Hitman;199915]Awesome information,
the reason im going with the fox mustangs is because I have great consistant cars, and plenty of back up parts.
I seen some class racing and I really enjoyed it and thought it would be fun.
My cars both have cages, both and racing seats, all the safety equipment and no junk.
and the vert is heavy...>

Hitman,

One item that was not mentioned was if your two Mustangs have cages
and you have bars running into the engine compartment, that car would
NOT be legal for Stock Eliminator since the rule book states no part of
the roll bar/cage is to pass forward of the firewall. Only allowed in SS.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Mike,
I live 30 miles east of MP Dragway, I run there, owingsville and London ky.

i was there at the UMTR race but running Super E.T and Mod.
currently putting together the UMTR car again to run MP in June and Owingsville in Sept.

Phillip,
both cars have cages and no bars run into the engine compartment...


On a third note.
I have a friend who has a MINT 1982 Mercury Zephyr inline 6 c5 trans...
all original down to the CB (yikes)
could I do anything with that?

on a side note, I have a few older mustangs one being a 1967 Mustang factory 289 auto car, it's a roller now but got to thinking that would be a nice stock car?

Thanks,
Dan

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

If you have the original, unmodified 2bbl intake and carb, the 82GT is the way to go. Refactored to 162hp but with more lift, better intake and bigger carb, this is the 302 to run. Or jump to a fuelie/roller cam 302 87-newer.
The 83-84 has bad heads, flat tappet cam and is almost the same as an 85 which at least runs a roller cam and a bit better head.(smaller air inj port in exh port). 86 is a flat top piston odd ball, stay clear. 87 is good heads, roller cam and good induction.

To start out though? Either buy a complete stocker turn key or be prepared to spend $$ on stock legal valvejobs etc. And find a shop that does S/SS work not the local machinest no matter how good his rep is.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

That Zephyr with the 200 inch 6 would be a fun $.10 car to play with in V with a c4 or 4 speed. Dave "Too Tall" Turner had a 200 Maverick that worked real well. I think that it would have really flown with some trans and converter work.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Hitman,

Did you come over to the IHRA Pro-AM at London a couple weeks ago? There were some nice stockers and Superstockers there you could have looked at.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Chris,
no I did not,

I was obligated to drive someone else's car at another track.

i have all intentions of being at the Pro-Am race at Mp Drag way though.

and really looking forward to talking to people, I hope to meet some from this site there....

Billy,
I was thinking the same thing, gears, and some torque convertor work it would be fun, and could also double as me another car to enter in foot brake races...

I don't want a world championship, I just want to go rounds.

Thanks for the help guys..
we are still looking but seriously thinking about looking at the Zephyr

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

I'll be at Mt.Park Pro Am,UMTR. that's the plan anyway.
Mike Taylor 3601

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Awesome,
I'll look you up!

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Sportsman. 11.50 to 13.50...

I guess thats my class,,,

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Another class is Stock GT with the Mercury. Stock GT is for 1980 cars and small trucks(?) and up with 55 thru 79 motors. Go with a 68 Merc small block with holley carb, 289? 302? Can't remember, might even be 67, which would be 289. Now that would be sweet. Paint it like Bob Gliddens Pro Stock Fairmont from weight break area, just my opinion.

Re: Getting Started in Class Racing
 

Forgot to add, v8/4 cylinder k member are the same, 6 cylinder k member is different so you will have to change it.