Dually Brakes?........
 

I've tried 2 different sets of brakes this year, neither seem to work very good. Anybody have any good tips on stopping power? I have a 95 Chevy 3500 dually and a 40' trailer. BTW, the trailer brakes work very good, just need more up front.....

Thanks for all the help...

Wade O

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Wade, the best ones I found were the top of line Carquest brand for the front. But, the brakes on those trucks aren't the best anyways. My truck had 190,000 miles on it when I sold it and I think I put 4(?) sets on the front (trueing up the rotors each time) and one set on the rear. I pulled a 28' Pace most of the time .

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Do you have the base C3500 or C3500 HD version? The brakes are different between for both trucks. Also, do you have drums in the rear or discs all around?

tell me the details and I may be able to make recommendations.

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

A 95 is disc/drum. I didn't think there was a HD version in 1995? Mine was a 2000....same style as Wades.

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

I had a 96 GMC C3500 it is the Hydro boost. They are junk. I changed mine out 3 times and still no stopping power. The Carquest brakes are very good.
I know what you are going through on stopping, I sold my dually and i have a 2003 Chevy 2500HD and it stop's a 1000% better than the dually.
Better gas mileage too.

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

I run the titanium metalic by wagner on the front of my 98 K3500. I pull a 44' haulmark, I weight right at 24,000 total wieght and it has great stopping power. I work on a ton of these trucks as it seems every farmer around here has one. The one thing I have found is that after these trucks get around 100K on them the hydroboosters do not make as much pressure as they did originally often times creating less than expected braking capibility that is usually only noticable with a loaded trailer. If you are having trouble stopping start checking pressures and I think you will find a rebuilt booster will dramaticly improve braking when pulling a heavy trailer. I put about half dozen a year on and owners are always amazed how much better the truck stops afterwards. By the way if you do end up needing one the ones from O'riellys are the best value they are just as good as the ones from Napa and half the price usually around 150 my cost for a rebuilt unit. And as always make sure rear drum brakes are adjusted up you would not believe the number of trucks I see with stuck adjusters
Hope this helps
Rob

Just happend to call for some other stuff they went up 180 exchange now

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Wish I would have known that a long time ago about the booster.... Rob, do you see alot of warped rotors on these trucks?

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Mine has discs on the front and drums on the rear. It does not have HD anywhere on the truck. Its too old to get the options list from GM, I already tried......

Wade

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Wade,

These are my recommendations:

Front Rotors:
NAPA P/N: 86593

Front Pads:
Satisfied Brakes Fleet P/N: FL459
or:
NAPA P/N: SD7339M

Rear Shoes:
Satisfied Brakes Fleet P/N: 452NR
or:
NAPA P/N: SD452R

Before you install them, find a place and have the rotors, pads and shoes cryogenically treated. It is worth every penny and the results are worth the cost.

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Guys i had the same problem from my 2000 3500 Dually and i even talked to some GM Tech people. My Truck did not have enough rear Brakes and was heating up the front rotors which in turn was warping them. i turned and replaced the front Rotors 6 times. The Gm Tech person told me to get a Perportion Valve for a 3500 Wrecker and lo in behold, that fixed my problems, i now have good rear brakes. If you need the Number i can probably dig it up!;)

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

We have a fleet of GM service vans where I work. Most are 2500-8600gvw's a couple are 1 ton 3500's. Brakes have been a constant issue over the years and we buy them new and have from the late 90's to brand new this year. I do most of the maintenance and have tried every front brake pad on the market and we still have brake issues on most of the vans. Poor stopping power and brake shimmy and vibration is a common complaint from our service guys. I routinely replace rotors and pads. Forget cutting them and I've tried GM parts as well as Napa and no name chinese made rotors. All the same results on the work vans. My own truck is a GMC pickup...8600gvw and it did not stop well with the factory stuff. I changed pads a few times and eventually installed drilled rotors and Satisfied Brakes fleet pads.....same stuff SSDiv6 recommends and they work better than any other brand and have lasted very well. Stopping power is good as well. I recommend them. They are made in Canada and I bought them direct after seeing them featured on some "car guy" TV shows. My truck is a 4x4 and replacing rotors is not a quick job so I am happy to have gone a few years on my last brake re-do on it..........

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

No on 2wd at least nothing that cant be machined out, yes on 4wd and almost always are so bad they need replaced to fix properly, I think it is because of the way they made the 4X4 setup not a good design in my opinion. bad part is on the 4wd you have to pull the whole hub/rotor assy and press it apart to change rotors its not a quick job by any means. The most common thing I see on these trucks both 3/4 and 1 tons is very few people check rear brake adjusters to make sure they are functioning properly and keeping the brakes adjusted. Second is bad boosters. As far as front end shimmy goes I have yet to see one of these trucks with over 50K that did not need a idler arm and pitman arm they are junk from the factory. Best solution that cures the problem is the moog problem solver parts a little bit higer than the standard stuff but they last. I put them on my truck at 45K now have close to 130K on it and they are still tight. Now if you want to really see a problem find a truck with warped rotors and loose idler/pitman arms hook a big load to the back and try and stop, it will almost jerk the wheel out of your hands. I have tried the Tow Truck valve. works a bit better for when you are towing a trailer But if you drive on snow or bad roads like we have around here in the winter time it can be a handfull because it seems to want to lock up the rears and try and make the truck swap ends. ( I took it back off mine for fear if I let someone else drive the truck it would get wrecked.

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Cryogenics will make the rotors last longer and will reduce warping.

These companies sell fleet brake rortors that are already cryogenically treated:

http://www.precisionfleetbrakes.com/

http://www.commandautomotive.com/home.html

Additional articles:

http://www.diversifiedcryogenics.com/brakes.html

http://www.cryogenicsofindiana.com/b...RotorTests.htm

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Wade trade up to a 2001 or later. They have rear discs and stop much better.

Greg

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Woodro, if you can find that number I would like to get it from you. My truck is a 2000 and it does the same thing you're talking about.

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Woodro,
If you could dig up that number that would be helpful. Our truck is a 2000 and the brakes do not have a confident feel when the trailer is all loaded up.

Scaz

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Greg, I have to save that money for "finish line" driving lessons, lol.

Wade

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Thanks to all who replied, I have some good info to work with here!

Wade

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Scaz, here are the numbers! The part number he can use is 12548273 GM ;)
The Delco part number is 172-2242

Re: Dually Brakes?........
 

Great! Thank you.