Originally Posted by junior barns (Post 521932)

Looking at this diagram it's the way I have wired mine. But it still has a constant hot wire running to the alternator. Could you run this wire to the main switch and then to the battery ?? And if so how big of a switch (amp wise) should we use?

Originally Posted by Mike Taylor 3601 (Post 521917)

Probably 95% of hydraulic cam stockers have solid lifters already and have had for many years,they just have .015'' travel in the pushrod seat and are considered hydraulic by the rules,it is a solid lifter with the pushrod seat cut for .015'' travel,nothing hydraulic about it and .010-.012'' of that travel is taken out when the valve is set depending on lash the lifter is compressing .003-.005'' the only difference is the lash is between the pushrod seat and lifter body rather than between the cam and lifter.
This rule doesn't change the need for ceramic,tool steel or whatever kind of special lifter is being used,it doesn't change the cam profiles they are already solid lifter profiles.
Only thing it changes is a hyd. roller that has a true hyd. roller lifter which has probably been modified to only have .015'' travel will now be able to take them out and replace with a much lighter solid roller lifter,which won't make any difference because they are already running a spring strong enough to handle the extra lifter weight,so maybe they get a few more runs out of their springs.
Nothing to get excited about.
Mike Taylor 3601

Originally Posted by ALMACK (Post 521935)

Only if you run it to the source side of the switch.

If you kill the main switch, you kill engine power.
You kill engine power, you kill the alt.

If I wire the alt. to the switched side of the main ( that feeds the fuse box), the engine will still run if the main disconnect is off because the alt. is still feeding 12v to the fuse box while the engine is still running.


Thus the location of the alt. wire on the source side of the main switch, not the fuse box side.


edit: Sorry Jeff if I de-railed your thread

Originally Posted by Darrel Goheen (Post 521956)

I've been trying to figure out for years why NHRA requires the master switch to be on the positive cable. It should be on the negative cable. It would be much safer and easier. No battery ground and everything will be killed. Somebody please explain to me why I'm wrong.

Originally Posted by Bob Mulry (Post 521959)

Hi
If there is an accident and the positive and negative crushed would still have a short and you have not addressed the issue of protecting both the front and rear batteries............
If wanted you could control the front battery with a constant duty rely.......
Sorry I hijacked thisthread....

Bob

Originally Posted by Darrel Goheen (Post 521968)

That is correct Bob. For safety reasons I don't think a front and rear battery should be allowed. Also why is a cut off switch only required for rear mounted batteries?