Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Rich looks like you created some of your own problems should be easy to fix with some time. I believe you o2 sensors are daisy chained together in the wiring so if one is not plugged in the other one will not work. Some of the years of cars are wired differently on this circuit. if you are missing the engine coolant sensor you will have problems, your after start enrichment table is like a choke will not change your fuel going to the motor as it warms up. Have not used the system you are working with just the stock computer with a chip. hope this helps. good luck

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

That sensor in the pic is the coolant temp sensor for the computer. There is a second temp sensor that is for the gauge in the dash (normally goes in the drivers side front of the intake and has a small "stud" sticking out of the top for the gauge hookup). You can eliminate that coolant tube if you like and put the sensor right into the intake.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Put the ECT sensor in the intake where the heater tube came out of. The o2 sensors are not causing the current issue by themselves, but will cause tons of other tuning issues.
So,
Reroute fuel
Add ECT sensor
Add o2 sensor


Should correct the issues, possibly have to lower fuel pressure a little, but maybe not, every engine is different.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

You need both hooked up for the factory EEC. Not sure on the aftermarket setups.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Ok guys - I will re-plumb the fuel system to mimic the second diagram, add the coolant sensor and install the other factory O2 sensor. If that corrects the current problem I'll add another bung for the wideband sensor. I will try to make some screenshots of the controller readings.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

with the pms , you can tune and run it without 02s. I haven't had them in my car for 4-5 years.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Somehow I got it starting/running smoothly atm. Extended the harness for the temp sensor and installed it directly in the lower intake. I can see it registering in the PMS controller now. Both factory O2 sensors installed, but I have yet to see any readings on the PMS screen. Not sure if the MAP sensor is functioning. I don't know how to tell if the IAC is fuctioning or not. 12 degrees locked in with the spout connector out, then plugged back in.

I'll have to order a fitting for the fuel rail before re-plumbing the system. Idles around 1350rpm and does not stall when shifted into gear. I will need to get a weld-on bung fitting so I can re-install the wideband O2.

While waiting for fittings I need to figure out why the new alternator has no output.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps8ouaknly.jpg

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...pshon3fpu3.jpg

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

While I'm not familiar with the screen output on that scanner, seen plenty others. Is that the IAT reading -30' ? Is it hooked up yet ? The first pic shows the engine @ 980RPM (i think), A heated O2 sensor (3 or 4 wire) should be showing voltage fairly quickly. 170' is more than enough time. Will that PMS let you lock out different inputs ?

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Yep,

I agree with Dave...Looks like Intake Air Temp is way off at -30 .....that will make it way rich. Usually default is -40 when they are unhooked but check for the open plug. IAT sensor looks like your coolant sensor except the end is not sealed with brass, it has a thermistor exposed to get air temp. Should be screwed into #5 intake port or you can move it into the intake upper plenum by using one of the plugs located on the underside of the intake. O2s are not used in the base calculations for fuel..they are more like trimmers when the system is warm and in closed loop so they are not players on initial starts. I'm curious about the -29HG ..is that the.baro reading? Usually that is just expressed as a positive #

Basics to get it running TP, ECT, IAT, BARO, Fuel Pressure, base timing. Looks like you are getting closer!

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Do the one-wire mod to the alternator. It's cheap to do, more reliable and safer. You will be able to diagnose any alternator problem very quickly.