Re: Gas or Diesel?
 

To take it one step further I used to tow an 18' box with my gremlin (GW 7,000 lbs) with my Dakota, 5.2 auto 3:91 gear w/tow package.Used to get up to 12mpg until they started to add all the alky to the gas.Dropped down to 9.9 to 10 mpg.My only problem was stopping. Luckily I never had a problem. I had the trailer set up as living quarters with a sink w/8gal water tank,gen (3500 watt),marine battery for powering radio and other accessories,8 flourescent lights,power roof vent and a bed set up where the bed mounted over the hood when traveling and at the rear at the track.Walls were lined with FRP siding.I had a Buddy heater for the chilly weather and a fan for the warmer weather.
Also hooked up satellite TV.The car stayed outside at the track with a car cover and if it was going to rain a tarp over the cover.Now this worked for me because I always traveled alone.The only thing I'd change is towing with at least a 2500 series truck.One advantage is you can leave the track with the truck.Another is the truck is usable anytime,where the M/H sits idle for who knows how long.
Time to take my nappie now.

Re: Gas or Diesel?
 

Robert,

I have towed since 1983 with a 4 diff. motorhomes, here's my take

3 were gas ,current is a 36' w/cat 350hp diesel.

my 99 V10 32' gas coach got the same mpg as my 05 diesel, the only diesels that get better mileage are the 5.9 300 hp cummings, good motor, enough power , my cat gets 6.5-7.5, a similar coach with the 5.9 will get 2-3 better.

You said you wanted a motorhome in the lower 30 foot length size, there are not alot that size with diesel power. most are 36 and up, there are some that are 34, 32 would be pretty rare.

My second coach I bought new from Marc in 1989, 24' coachman class c with a 460. I strengthened the hitch, and put over 100,000 miles on it towing , first 5 years with an open trailer, then 8+ years with a 24' enclosed pace trailer(not the lightest). The only thing that was a concern is you need to figure out how to get the weight distributed correctly so it will stop the best possible. As was stated, stopping is the biggest concern, the longer the wheelbase and the heavier the chassis the better of you are for handling and stopping. Some coaches have a short wheelbase and lots of overhang, you then need more work on the back of the coach so you don't bend it, it is doable, just don't drop a beast of a trailer on a factory motorhomr hitch and expect it to be ok.

Yes you need to be able to fix stuff, they need constant attention, houses are just not like cars when they are driving down the road.

I would recommend a 460 ford, a V10 ford,8100 chev with gas or a cat or cummins diesel, i have owned most of them or had friends who towed with them and none of them are bad .The ford 4 speed auto trans you need to be careful with, I put 50-60,000 on mine and it did blowup once.I think they used it from 90 or 91 until a few years ago

hope that helps you

Re: Gas or Diesel?
 

Did you have to reinforce the rear frame rails at all Jim? Our Jayco Greyhawk 33' Class C has a pretty significant overhang behind the rear wheels and I'm concerned about how strong the frame will be. We'd like to upgrade to an enclosed trailer and a trailer toad will be fine but I wanted to know if I'd have to get some welding done.

Scott

Re: Gas or Diesel?
 

We have a 32' class C on a Chevy Kodiak C5500 chassis, 6.6 Duramax with an Allison. Enough power, stops good (love the exhaust brake), 9 MPG towing, tows fine after adding a decent set of shocks. The coach weighs just over 18,000 lbs, GCWR is 26,000 lbs so you can legally tow 8,000 lbs. There are a few different coach brands out there on these chassis, if you stick to one of the shorter ones you can keep the gross within legal. Our total weight is just over 26,000 with a 24' trailer, 3500 lb stocker and lots of unnecessary stuff my wife insists on bringing along.

Jim Mantle V/SA 6632