Re: Advice for new bracket racer
 

I has a 8 point cage,The body is rust free so I don't have to replace the floor and weighs about 3300 lbs. I will probably keep the 400 for now. My goal is to get the car on the track by spring so if it not broke I am going to keep it. I am looking for a Big block for it to run.

Re: Advice for new bracket racer
 

Yes that combination will work. I agree that you will need a high stall speed, 5500 shoud be about right.

Remember the key to bracket racing is consistancy, not speed. The car being heavy will actually help you, because you should not have any traction issues.
In bracket racing a big block and a powerglie are the way to go.
Main thing is to remember to have FUN!!!!!!!

Re: Advice for new bracket racer
 

Either will work just fine it you change to a powerglide you will need a new (longer) driveshaft. But since the glide has a higher first gear ratio it should be more consistent. But it may be a little slower and you will need a good planetary to make it as reliable as the 400.
I'll see what my machinest has laying around. You might consider a GM crate 454 or 502 or if your budget permits a 572.

Billy Baer

Re: Advice for new bracket racer
 

Found a 502 going to pick it up next week....thanks Bill...I am going through the car cleaning things up and noticed that the car still has stamped rear controll arms... would it be worth the money to replace them now with after market or just keep them...If yes is ajustable the way to go..Trying to stay in a budget but my safety has no budget......

Re: Advice for new bracket racer
 

400 trans,reverse valve body, shfter, trans break and 5500 stall.

Remember, that's what everyone else has. Where is your edge?

The nice thing about a powerglide is, it doesn't try to MURDER the tires coming off the line like the 400 will.

Re: Advice for new bracket racer
 

Whatever you wind-up running, you should always remember it's just for fun... very few bracket racers make a living at it. That said, I always try to find something that went well... the car ran quicker, I cut a better light, went more rounds, helped a fellow racer, etc. If you don't look at it that way, you might get discouraged and give it up... after sinking a bunch of money into your car. Now, go have fun! :D

"By-Run"
'68 Barracuda 340-S 4-Speed
11.34 @ 118.6 mph

Re: Advice for new bracket racer
 

I raced for the fist time on aug 17 1986 3 days after I turned 16. It was very obivious that it was my first time and one of the local hitters came up to me and said "1st time" I said yes any advise

here is what he told me.

"Quit now and buy a boat LOL. You can fit more ladies in it, they will usually be wearing less clothes, they like it better than the racecars so you wont get as much complaining about it and unless you do something stupid you wont have to work on it very much to have fun but if you like it and are going to keep coming up here to the track make for dam sure you have fun because you can go from feeling like your on the top of the world to the dumpster in this sport in less than a few seconds if your having fun that dumpster does not feel so bad.

so just go have fun would be the best advise I could give you the rest will come as you get more seat time.

Re: Advice for new bracket racer
 

The first thing you need to do is get a mirror and a flash light and verify that the frame is not cracked where the upper control arms attach. It's pretty common for them to be cracked there. Then if that's OK you can box the stamped steel control arms repace the upper & front lower bushings with poly bushings and the rear lower bushings with Competion Engineering C3165 solid aluminum buishings. Get new grade 8 bolts with locknuts and verify that none of the mounting holes are elongated if they are you need to fix them as well. You also may need to install an air bag in the right rear spring if the car exibits body roll to the right when it launches.
In my experience the bolt on ladder bars and bolt onslapper bars don't work very well and just cover up other problems (slop) in the GM stuff.
Some time back Mr. Gasket and Genuine Suspension sold "no hop" bars that relocated the upper rear control are attachment points higher and improved the suspension geometry but in my experience they tended to loosen up after some use and I am therefore very leery of them.
You also as a minimum need to have the front end alignment checked to verify that you have as much positive caster as possible. You might also consider replacing the front A-arm bushings and coil springs with Moroso trick Springs and 90/10 or front drag shocks which will increase the travel of the front end which can help plant the rear tires.
If you consider the aftermarket control arms they till give you the ability to adjust the pinion angle which could be useful but I myself have no experience playing with pinion angle for chassis tuning
I have seen some very fast cars with the stock or near stock chevelle rear suspension.
All of this may be overkill but, I like you, don't trust those stock stamped steel control arms and I do know that any slop in the GM suspension will result in wheel hop and will break stuff.

Hope this helps

Re: Advice for new bracket racer
 

Thanks, I am going into this to have fun and hang with friends. I am going out to the garage to look at the mounting holes and start boxing them in. Thanks for all the advice keep it coming... Happy holidays to all....

Re: Advice for new bracket racer
 

Make sure your cooling system and battery charging system are up to snuff for hot laps !!!
Don't lose a race because your engine is hot or the battery is not charged enough !! :-)