Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Yes, you have to have them, Rich...Now that you put it on the internet.
TMI

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Information is what I am after Mark...if I have to run them so be it. The two pounds in weight is not a concern...the reason/need for them being there is.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Unfortunately, Mark may be right. Stock requires a full factory front end as does SS except for the conversion cars, for that matter. When I rebuilt the front end of my 68 for GT I used aftermarket stock replica parts piece for piece except for brakes. There are solid bars similar to those on my car that run from the lower control arms to the front of the chassis under the radiator support. They are responsible for part of the alignment and are adjustable. The whole front is different from yours.

Dale

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

A pic of the front brace attached...

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps46afb595.jpg

I know some use these parts, but I never envisioned it would be illegal to delete or modify said part. What exactly constitutes "factory suspension"? I can substitute aftermarket rotors/calipers but can't touch this junky bracket? It looks like a bandaide fix from Ford to me. When I installed the subframe connectors I had to cut the factory braces at the rear that the back braces bolt to...does this make the car null and void now? It sure isnt going to be as Ford produced it.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Rich, You ask a question like this on the 'net, and you'll get 10 answers ...5 for , 5 against..
including some from folks who have yet to ever make it to their first NHRA nat. or divisional.
All you've accomplished is pointing out the item that you may not want to have on your car.

There are at least three Fox convertibles in Div. 3, including one guy who is in the Ford performance business.
These people are the ones who have your answer...in person.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I've photos of cars wheels up in ND that don't seem to meet these regs.

"SUSPENSION, Front
Must retain complete stock front suspension system as produced
by manufacturer for body used, aftermarket tie rods with Heim joints
permitted. Lift kits/travel limiters prohibited. Sway bar optional. See
General Regulations 3:4.

3:4 SUSPENSION
All cars must have a full suspension system of the type produced by an automobile manufacturer (i.e., springs, torsion bars, etc.). Rigid- mount front and/or rear axles are permitted when so indicated in Class Requirements. All rod ends must be installed with flat washers of sufficient outside diameter to prevent bearing pullout. Hollow rod ends are prohibited. With the exception of unaltered OEM production Can-Am Spyder three-wheel motorcycles, three- wheel vehicles are not eligible for competition in any class. Radius rods are not required on front axles that are rigidly mounted 18 inches or less from kingpin axis. Any front suspension using a beam or tubular axle must have radius rods attached to frame."

Aftermarket brakes are OK. If that thing counts as a radius rod, toss it. Since it bolts in, pull it out but hold on to it. If a tech asks for it, stick it back in.

Dale

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Sway bar Optional,, Rich. The way that thing is bolted in, going from one side to the other,, it could be considered a sway bar,,, at least it looks like one when I squint my eyes! Good luck with this project,,, but I do miss the Camaro build.
Danny Durham

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

Those tubular bars going forward from the crossmember in a v, aren't part of the suspension like the strut rods on my 70's cougar. While removing them, I don't believe would compromise much strength in the body and would make access easier, but I wouldn't remove them.

As for an alternator, I'd just use a lower amp 70's style unit. But I have a few laying around to choose from.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

On my 85 Mustang, I used the original alternator, and mounted it where the smog pump used to go, down low, to the passenger side of the harmonic balancer. I also cut away much of the large aluminum bracket that wasn`t doing anything anymore.I used an aluminum Moroso alternator pulley, and a factory V belt crank pulley from a 1970s 302, and modified some old adjusting bracket I found at a wrecking yard. It works fine, is out of the way, and in 11 years, has never pitched the belt. Cheap and simple.

Re: Ford vs Chevy Build-up
 

I waited and went to work thinking about this Mark so I could be sure of being polite and respectful.

That statement infers that doing something out of the scope of the rule book is alright as long as it isnt spoken of...at least that is how I interpreted it. I don't exist in a grey area nor do I wish to...I'm the most black and white person you are likely to meet and make no apologies for it. The only reason I post on this forum is because I thought this would be the best place to gather information from like minded racers on subjects or issues I have with ongoing projects.

I understand this is a open forum and I appreciate information and suggestions from all regardless of experience...you never know what ideas might prove beneficial until you hear them. I like to think I'm savvy enough to sort through and consider all input. Those that follow me here know I am not prone to opinions nor do I usually comment on subjects unless I have personal experience with them. Btw, I do have contact with and consider advice from some of the racers you mentioned, but I do not limit myself or censor information from all other sources.

With that off my chest let's continue this build. Hoping I can take delivery early enough tm to allow me to at least set the hoop in the car to measure clearance with the ragtop. :)