Thoughts on Moroso Trick Springs (Foxbody)

[JHeath]

I used a compressor like this, removed the hook by the bolt head, and put a round plate there, the other hook was hooked into the spring, then I ran the threaded shaft thru the hole in the control arm with the bolt on plate under the arm.

[Don Anderson]

X2 !!

[Rory McNeil]

]I had used the Moroso front & rear springs on my 85 Mustang Stocker. I only ran the rear springs 1 weekend, they seemed too light, at least for my stickshift car. What worked the best for me was a stock pair of coils from a 90 GT (green tag).
Up front, as others have said, a royal PITA to install. OTC sells the special spring compressor that Ford showed in the shop manual, but way to expensive to justify for only using once or twice. What I found that worked the best, was to remove both the inner control arm bolts , with a floor jack under the coil spring seat, and slowly release the tension until the springs can be removed by hand. Although Moroso says not to cut the springs, unless you are installing an iron headed 460 with A/C, they are waaaay too long.
I first cut the front springs a full coil, and the front end still sat way too high. Removed another 1/2 coil, still a touch high, cut another 1/4 coil, then too low. Finally went with a new set of Moog 4 cyl, non A/C springs, worked fine. As for the rear airbags, I used them, as they corrected the twisted up launch these cars often have. Many guys just use a single bag in the RR, I installed both, for me, 5 psi in the LF, and 20-25 in the RR let the car leave nice and level. For rear shocks I used the Strange single adjustable units, double adjustables are nice, but quite a bit more $$$.[IMG]jpg 6(3)[/IMG]

[HawkBrosMav]

Can someone explain the reasoning behind the 4 cylinder spring working? Seems like it would have the opposite effect of the Moroso spring. Unless I’m thinking backwards if you compare the 3 springs of choice here the Moroso would be the stiffest, followed by the GT, then the 4 cylinder. If the idea is the the Moroso has more stored energy which helps the car transfer weight better why would the 4 cylinder then be a better choice than the GT spring? Wouldn’t it have the least amount of stored energy?

I’m not trying to be a hard *** or come across as not appreciative of the info and responses! I think i’ve given up on the Moroso spring entirely at this point, sounds like a lot of work and a waste of money from the experiences of everyone. Now I’m just asking questions for the education if you guys don’t mind. Thanks!!

[BRETV]

I don't know what science is behind it, I just know the car reacted and 60 ft better with 4cyl Springs. We even cut 1 coil out of those. My super stocker 1.39 60 ft's with those.So we've stuck with them.




Bret Velde
2003 SS/LA

[Mike Graham]

Originally Posted by HawkBrosMav

Can someone explain the reasoning behind the 4 cylinder spring working? Seems like it would have the opposite effect of the Moroso spring. Unless I’m thinking backwards if you compare the 3 springs of choice here the Moroso would be the stiffest, followed by the GT, then the 4 cylinder. If the idea is the the Moroso has more stored energy which helps the car transfer weight better why would the 4 cylinder then be a better choice than the GT spring? Wouldn’t it have the least amount of stored energy?

I’m not trying to be a hard *** or come across as not appreciative of the info and responses! I think i’ve given up on the Moroso spring entirely at this point, sounds like a lot of work and a waste of money from the experiences of everyone. Now I’m just asking questions for the education if you guys don’t mind. Thanks!!

Brad
You want the longest/lowest rate spring that you can get in the front of the car. Try not to cut the spring as this raises the spring rate. The longer spring pushes the front end up through more of the travel (storing more energy). This also helps when the car settles back down. It is less violent coming down and shocks the chassis less.

[Mark Yacavone]

Brad, You're correct in that the 4 cyl. spring wouldn't have as much stored energy as the Moroso.
They do allow the front to sit lower , for more weight transfer.
I had them in a street 5.0. and you could feel the front rise, even with a tight converter.
You'd probably want at least a 3-way shock, set on 90/10 at first.

[Ed Wright]

I made the mistake of cutting my first set of Moroso springs to get the ride hight I wanted. They settle to a lower ride hight from just sitting there, even more from a long ride, tied down in the trailer. I put them in in Jan. Hauled it to Pomona, front was too low when I unloaded at Pomona. Over all, it was tied down in the trailer about a week. Hadvto buy another pair of springs when I got home. Put them in, like they came out of the box. Before our first Div race came around, ride hight was fine. Aligned it & went racing. Best springs I had used at the time. Longer coils, wound from smaller wire, stores more energy.
Any from coils will settle after a while. Smaller wire coils settle more.

Softer rear springs hook better than stiff springs. They all settle. I pick my car up on my 2 post lift to unload my springs between races to extend their life, and maintain chassis settings.

[HawkBrosMav]

Originally Posted by Mark Yacavone

Brad, You're correct in that the 4 cyl. spring wouldn't have as much stored energy as the Moroso.
They do allow the front to sit lower , for more weight transfer.
I had them in a street 5.0. and you could feel the front rise, even with a tight converter.
You'd probably want at least a 3-way shock, set on 90/10 at first.

We've had the 10 way Strange on all 4 corners since we put the car together. Honestly don't know where they're set right this second, it's been a while since we messed with chassis stuff.

[HawkBrosMav]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

I made the mistake of cutting my first set of Moroso springs to get the ride hight I wanted. They settle to a lower ride hight from just sitting there, even more from a long ride, tied down in thevtrailer. I put them in in Jan. Hauled it to Pomona, front was too low when I unloaded at Pomona. Over all, it was tied down in the trailer about a week. Hadvto buy another pair of springs when I got home. Put them in, like they came out of the box. Before our first Div race came around, ride hight was fine. Aligned it & went racing. Best springs I had used at the time. Longer coils, wound from smaller wire, stores more energy.
Any from coils will settle after a while. Smaller wire coils settle more.

Softer rear springs hook better than stiff springs. They all settle. I pick my car up on my 2 post lift to unload my springs between races to extend their life, and maintain chassis settings.

Ed, what is the logic behind a softer spring in the rear? And how would running a airbag in the rear (we don't as of now) negate or help the softer spring?