H-I-J '76 Nova re-fit.

[Keith Bennett]

Todd,

That would be just for the rust in your cylinder walls.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Keith Bennett

Todd,
I used to use VP C-11 and had to do major repairs to heads and cylinder walls after the motor set for some time.
I was told that the problem was from the VP fuel.
Luckily I had changed over to Sunoco before NHRA had made their switch. Never had any troubles with my motors during the down time with Sunoco.

VP is great fuel, I just had not been told to foam the motor after races.

Good luck sir.

Thanks Keith, Yes I have been told to fog it. I believe these marks have been in it for a bit. I tossed around just buying a good block now and getting it over with, that will just add way too much time to this so we'll get this one going and worry about a new bottom end later this year.

[Dissident]

Todd,
Couldn't see oil filter adapter in the pics. Is the by pass plugged so everything has to go through the filter? IF not, I would highly suggest that for better filtration path.


Looks like the dampers were being used as hole saws into whatever spacers were being used. Hardened locators are better solutions for sure.


Might be worthwhile for you to measure the existing clearance on the gnawed up bearings so you can log what is too much for the weight lube you might be running.


Are the piston skirts all chewed up as well?


Wishing you the best of luck on the rebuild.


Regards to you and Autumn,
HB2
Dissident Hombre

[Glenn Briglio]

Yes rust in cylinders and on valves and seats is from fuel.

[Alan Nyhus]

Todd, the VPC11 and C12 fuels will leave a little film of rust. Some light oil and a Scotch Brite pad and you'll be fine. I fog mine with Marvel Mystery Oil at the end of the season.

For valve springs, I'd highly recommend the PAC 1409X and matching their retainers. They were designed for this application. Controlling the lifter is critical with these stub nosed cams.

https://www.racingsprings.com/index..../category/358/

A good high zinc oil is a must for long lobe life. Valvoline VR1 or Red Line are good oils

https://www.redlineoil.com/20wt-race-oil-5w20

You'll be back in business in no time.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Alan Nyhus

Todd, the VPC11 and C12 fuels will leave a little film of rust. Some light oil and a Scotch Brite pad and you'll be fine. I fog mine with Marvel Mystery Oil at the end of the season.

For valve springs, I'd highly recommend the PAC 1409X and matching their retainers. They were designed for this application. Controlling the lifter is critical with these stub nosed cams.

https://www.racingsprings.com/index..../category/358/

A good high zinc oil is a must for long lobe life. Valvoline VR1 or Red Line are good oils

https://www.redlineoil.com/20wt-race-oil-5w20

You'll be back in business in no time.

Al, these are more like pits in the cyl. and yes I'm looking at the PAC 1409X springs, not sure which retainer yet. Been using Brad Penn oil.

[HP HUNTER]

Hows that #4 cap fit into the register? You probably should wet mag the crank.

[HP HUNTER]

Originally Posted by Nmbr1GMfan

Checked some stuff and pulled everything apart today. I honestly have more questions than answers at this point with some of the weird stocker stuff but oh well. The reason for the tear down was low oil pressure, well the two rear main bearings were the culprits as you will see. The reason? Well I'm guessing it was the valve springs, or more so how they were set up, a stack of shims and no locator, the damper (with no locator) was bashing the shims and sending metal through the engine. I'm guessing some got through the filter. Also has the wrong retainers for the springs. Springs were pretty soft but hell maybe they are setup this way to loft the valve open or something with this square cam. One thing I didn't count on were the janky cylinders in the block, almost look rusted near the top of a few of them, we'll clean them up as good as we can... we gotta race.

I like to use a L31 Vortec retainer, with a -.050 tool steel keepers, and an Engine pro 1.250 cup locator with that set up. Light weight, simple and cheap, and it won't make metal, deburr the damper and spring ends.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by HP HUNTER

I like to use a L31 Vortec retainer, with a -.050 tool steel keepers, and an Engine pro 1.250 cup locator with that set up. Light weight, simple and cheap, and it won't make metal, deburr the damper and spring ends.

Thank you.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Worked on cleaning some stuff today, chasing bolt holes and getting the heads cleaned and ready for a valve job and reassembly. I think we figured out the spring stuff needed. Gotta get a parts list started.