Electrolysis in aluminum radiator - Help

House of Darts · 09-20-2018, 10:26 AM

Could there be an iron bolt passing through the aluminum head into a water jacket? What are the chances of aluminum shavings stuck in the iron block or iron shavings in the head? If you are developing distinct issues of electrolysis in such a short period of time, you have a chemical reaction taking place. Water wetter is very corrosive on the base side of the PH scale. Flush everything internally with distilled water. We are talking 25-40 gallons. Drain the water including everything in the block and add Evapo Rust. Let it sit for 3 hours. Drain and use a filter for the water. If the water has turned black, black/green you have a fair amount of rust in your system. Strain the Evapo and let it sit again, probably 1-2 hours and check the color. If you to keep doing this, you will need to use fresh Evapo Rust until the system is clean. Not sure about the mineral content of your local water and that's even if its municipal water. Upon resolving this issue just use distilled water with a very small amount of anti freeze.The bracket that supports to alternators is probably attached to the aluminum head and the iron block. That's grounding. The alternator can also be leaking and that can travel trough the same route. I think there is a test kit to trace if combustion is leaking into the cooling system. Depending what you use for fuel, even a fuel additive, those compounds, raw or burned, can be leaking into the cooling system and be adding to or be the problem. While the car sits in your shop, ground both heads, block, chassis and body to a in the ground ground. Eliminate every possible action and work from there.

09-20-2018, 10:26 AM	#18
House of Darts Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 346 Likes: 19 Liked 20 Times in 15 Posts	Re: Electrolysis in aluminum radiator - Help Could there be an iron bolt passing through the aluminum head into a water jacket? What are the chances of aluminum shavings stuck in the iron block or iron shavings in the head? If you are developing distinct issues of electrolysis in such a short period of time, you have a chemical reaction taking place. Water wetter is very corrosive on the base side of the PH scale. Flush everything internally with distilled water. We are talking 25-40 gallons. Drain the water including everything in the block and add Evapo Rust. Let it sit for 3 hours. Drain and use a filter for the water. If the water has turned black, black/green you have a fair amount of rust in your system. Strain the Evapo and let it sit again, probably 1-2 hours and check the color. If you to keep doing this, you will need to use fresh Evapo Rust until the system is clean. Not sure about the mineral content of your local water and that's even if its municipal water. Upon resolving this issue just use distilled water with a very small amount of anti freeze.The bracket that supports to alternators is probably attached to the aluminum head and the iron block. That's grounding. The alternator can also be leaking and that can travel trough the same route. I think there is a test kit to trace if combustion is leaking into the cooling system. Depending what you use for fuel, even a fuel additive, those compounds, raw or burned, can be leaking into the cooling system and be adding to or be the problem. While the car sits in your shop, ground both heads, block, chassis and body to a in the ground ground. Eliminate every possible action and work from there.