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Old 06-09-2016, 10:31 AM   #21
Run to Rund
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Default Re: NHRA Battery Rules

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Originally Posted by George Mirza View Post
The master switch on my car has never shut the car off, only the accesories hooked to it. I always started and ran my car with the front battery and alternator. The rear battery was used for cooling only and not tied into the charging system.
You can shut off the engine with the cut off switch by wiring the MSD trigger through it. I also run a 4 gauge alternator hot wire, back to the switch.
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:19 AM   #22
Frank Castros
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Default Re: NHRA Battery Rules

My Pet Peeve,

The N.H.R.A. doesn't allow relocating batteries to the trunk in Stock Eliminator but allows aftermarket blocks and heads, roller rockers, solid lifters, any duration camshafts, aluminum radiators, electric water pumps and fans, aftermarket oil pans, exotic transmissions, aftermarket disc brakes, wheelie bars, fuel cells, Kirkey seats, hood scoops on cars that didn't come with one, bogus combinations and Factory Super Cars that don't belong in Stock Eliminator.

My Two Cents on a rainy Sunday morning in the Low Country.
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Old 01-22-2017, 12:20 PM   #23
John Dinkel
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Thumbs up Re: NHRA Battery Rules

Lots of new cars have the batteries in the trunk. They last longer because the heat under the hood is hard on batteries.
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Old 01-22-2017, 01:34 PM   #24
Alan Nyhus
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Default Re: NHRA Battery Rules

Allowing a front mounted battery to be relocated in the trunk would be a common sense move.
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Old 01-22-2017, 04:00 PM   #25
SSDiv6
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Default Re: NHRA Battery Rules

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Originally Posted by Coleydog View Post
Talk about taking an acid trip if the shaft brakes! Look out I see an explosion proof box in the future from the guys up top.
Would not be surprised if it happens, especially with Lithium batteries.
Last year there were several fires caused by runaway Lithium batteries.
The FAA even put a stop to shipments of Lithium batteries from a well know manufacturer due to lack and failures of compliance testing.
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Old 02-03-2017, 04:59 PM   #26
Rick Kolber
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Default Re: NHRA Battery Rules

[QUOTE=Frank Castros;524802]My Pet Peeve,

The N.H.R.A. doesn't allow relocating batteries to the trunk in Stock Eliminator but allows aftermarket blocks and heads, roller rockers, solid lifters, any duration camshafts, aluminum radiators, electric water pumps and fans, aftermarket oil pans, exotic transmissions, aftermarket disc brakes, wheelie bars, fuel cells, Kirkey seats, hood scoops on cars that didn't come with one, bogus combinations and Factory Super Cars that don't belong in Stock Eliminator.


Well said on all the above!
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Old 02-03-2017, 05:38 PM   #27
Coleydog
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Default Re: NHRA Battery Rules

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Originally Posted by SSDiv6 View Post
Would not be surprised if it happens, especially with Lithium batteries.
Last year there were several fires caused by runaway Lithium batteries.
The FAA even put a stop to shipments of Lithium batteries from a well know manufacturer due to lack and failures of compliance testing.
Hmm. I was looking at one of these, being like 2 pounds 3x6x6 600 cca. Might not now.
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Old 02-03-2017, 05:56 PM   #28
Larry Hill
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Default Re: NHRA Battery Rules

I have a disconnect switch on the drive shaft hump next to me that kills all power and engine when when switched off. Its on the negative side of the battery. Just in case something bad happens.
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:41 PM   #29
Bob Mulry
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Default Re: NHRA Battery Rules

It doesn't matter if you disconnect the Positive or Negative cable with the disconnect switch or where the switch is located...........

If you have 2 batteries (1 in the front of the car and 1 in the rear of the car), the cables still have to connect to the disconnect switch......

Even with the switch off, in the event of an accident, there would still be cables that run from the batteries to switch, that if damaged would create a short circuit.............

If using a disconnect on the ground or negative side and the cable was damaged and/or crushed between the battery and the switch, the entire car would remain hot and not controllable by the disconnect, as in the fuel pump, fan, ignition would continue to be energized.

If the hot or positive cable gets damaged and shorts between the battery and the switch you have a dead short and a potential fire

The only safe way to wire 2 batteries, 1 in front and 1 in rear, is to use a continuous duty, high amp rated relay located at the front battery and controlled by the disconnect switch, which also controls the rear battery...

Just my 2 cents,
Bob Mulry


PS:
Not as safe as you thought it was...
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