360 mopar oiling issue

[Larry Hill]

A clean neutral will help keep the big end of the rods round.

[GTSDart]

Originally Posted by CMcAllister

Just to clarify, the left (drivers side) galley is blocked off with a pipe plug in the feed passage at the #1 main bearing bore. Some people push a plug past the feed passage in the front of the galley under the cam thrust plate. But the plate isn't sealed to the face of the block and is another potential leak. Plugging at the bearing eliminates all of that. A crossover or direct bypass to the front of the right (pass side) galley is used in parallel with the galley and run from the very rear to the very front of the galley under the intake. This ensures that galley is fed equally well at both ends, and that the crank is oiled at the front as well. Plenty of oil being slung to oil lifters with the tubes or bushings. If the rocker gear requires pushrod oiling, the bushings can be drilled to provide that to the lifters and the left galley will have to remain fed from a crossover under the intake. Oil running to the cam from the main saddles still needs to be controlled to keep it on the crank..

The biggest problem I've had with pans is keeping the pickup submerged on deceleration. Different baffles and fixes were tried with varying success (or lack of it). I finally decided that an accusump, if allowed, or cutting the engine with a clean neutral was the best solution to that problem.

Thank you.... Yes that's much simpler to do...

So to recap

#1 Block the feed hole from the #1 main to the left bank

#2 Run a feed line on the right gallery from back to the front. What size?

#3 Restrict the oil to the cam on the mains that don't feed the rockers .060 orifice?

#4 Full groove mains

[GTSDart]

Originally Posted by Peter Ash

These little modifications may also help?

Hey Peter Who makes the lifter valley plate?

[Peter Ash]

Originally Posted by GTSDart

Hey Peter Who makes the lifter valley plate?

I have never seen another since I bought one 25 ish years ago. I have made several since, and it is quite easy to do.

[tstickff]

(Hey Peter Who makes the lifter valley plate?)

Larry Shepherd makes a pretty nice one, just have to machine the valley flat and it bolts down similar to the pictured one here.

And an Oil Accumulator is allowed in Super Stock, and might be the biggest help to your problem.We ran 360 in Super Stock and Stock, in stock we could not keep bearings alive and we were also using the dakota pan, after we added the accumulator no more issues.

Tim

[Tom Broome]

So who here has been through tech with oil lines in the lifter valley?
NHRA used to take a dim view of those practices in Stock and Super Stock, has it changed? Or does it depend on the Tech Inspector?


A while back, I used some tubing on a Small Block Chev to make it live with minimal oil pressure, and improve drain back. That resulted in an ugly Indy tear down.



Back to the question. If it was my engine, I would start by bushing the lifter bores, not much fun on 59 degree blocks. Then track down all of the remaining leaks, like the cam plate.

[CMcAllister]

I blocked oil to the left galley at the #1 main bore. Bushed all the lifter bores. Oil to all of the cam bearings was restricted way down.

Oil for the heads (stock OE LA style oiling through the deck) was taken off of the 2 and 4 cam bearings and provided by plumbing under the intake. It was also restricted. Rocker gear wear showed a slight increase in wear, but I was running a fairly mild roller with not a ton of spring pressure and Crane Gold rockers.

Port matched the pump and the rear cap. Massaged and enlarged every galley in the back of the block. Put a big pump in and used dual pickups.

An external line was used for simplicity. Not allowed on a legal engine, but as I read the rules, plumbing under the intake would be OK for SS. Not sure about Stock since it's not "external" but it's also not "as produced".

In the end, the only thing getting oil from the main RS galley was the crank and 4 small jets for the cam bearings. The top end was plumbed separate from the crank and was controlled.

I blew up one engine and had to check the filter every few runs, and replace rod inserts on one or two rods every 6 or 7 runs to keep from blowing up #2. After putzing around with pans, big oil pumps, crossdrilled crank, 3/4 grooved bearings, with no help, I just took it apart and completely re-did the oil system. Went to staying together all season, filter looked pretty good all season, and not looking too bad at the winter freshen. Just had to watch the rocker gear and pushrods.

Plenty of other folks are running these things over 7k with OE cranks and they may be doing something different. Some are installing the cam bearings to cover all the holes and redrilling them whatever size they think is correct. I used drilled plugs that could be changed easily if needed. My stock crank 340s were never this fussy at 7800, until I cut an iron 360 crank to go into a 340 block to get some cheap stroke. Something about the 360s and that iron crank.

[GTSDart]

Originally Posted by CMcAllister

I blocked oil to the left galley at the #1 main bore. Bushed all the lifter bores. Oil to all of the cam bearings was restricted way down.

Oil for the heads (stock OE LA style oiling through the deck) was taken off of the 2 and 4 cam bearings and provided by plumbing under the intake. It was also restricted. Rocker gear wear showed a slight increase in wear, but I was running a fairly mild roller with not a ton of spring pressure and Crane Gold rockers.

Port matched the pump and the rear cap. Massaged and enlarged every galley in the back of the block. Put a big pump in and used dual pickups.

An external line was used for simplicity. Not allowed on a legal engine, but as I read the rules, plumbing under the intake would be OK for SS. Not sure about Stock since it's not "external" but it's also not "as produced".

In the end, the only thing getting oil from the main RS galley was the crank and 4 small jets for the cam bearings. The top end was plumbed separate from the crank and was controlled.

I blew up one engine and had to check the filter every few runs, and replace rod inserts on one or two rods every 6 or 7 runs to keep from blowing up #2. After putzing around with pans, big oil pumps, crossdrilled crank, 3/4 grooved bearings, with no help, I just took it apart and completely re-did the oil system. Went to staying together all season, filter looked pretty good all season, and not looking too bad at the winter freshen. Just had to watch the rocker gear and pushrods.

Plenty of other folks are running these things over 7k with OE cranks and they may be doing something different. Some are installing the cam bearings to cover all the holes and redrilling them whatever size they think is correct. I used drilled plugs that could be changed easily if needed. My stock crank 340s were never this fussy at 7800, until I cut an iron 360 crank to go into a 340 block to get some cheap stroke. Something about the 360s and that iron crank.

Do you recall the size of restriction you used to the valve train and to the cam bearings?

[dondon]

one web site says to drill a new cam brg hole 1/8 th inch for 1, 3, and 5.

[Kenny McCoy]

Originally Posted by GTSDart

Do you recall the size of restriction you used to the valve train and to the cam bearings?

.030 to the cam bearings and heads is all that is needed.
What Larry said clear neutral lets valve springs live longer.