Dragster maintenance

[Tweaker]

What is it like every two seasons or so you need to refresh the motor?

[Bill Baer]

Tweaker

Well yea, if you don't have any problems somewhere between 250-300 passes I usually leak it down and if it leaks less than 10% it's fine.
I do however check the valve lash and valve spring seat pressures, change the oil and check the oil filter every 15-20 passes.
I also keep a close eye on MPH if it's off more that 2-3 MPH I start checking things
(Fuel filter, fuel pressure, ignition timing, valve lash/springs and if I'm real nervous I take the oil filter apart and check it for bearing materials)
The motor in the car has ~120 passes on it and the one I pulled out had ~300 and I need to freshen it (i.e. new: valves ,valve springs, roller lifters, pistons, rods and depending on the magnaflux inspection, maybe the crank).

Note this is based upon a steel connecting rod, stainless steel valve motors that I turn >7500 usually 7200 I wouldn't trust aluminum connecting rods for more than ~ 100 passes, less than that if you drive the motor down in the shutdown area.

[C and W Racing]

Tweaker, I live in Fl, although up close to Jax. I do have a dragster that I might consider selling, altho I haven't been trying to sell it. Deadliest car I have ever been in. The only reason I would consider selling it is because I have two cars and although I race in both Super comp with the dragster and Super gas with my Thunderbird, my favorite class for me is Super gas. This is a 2008 four link dragster and is Big Block Ford powered. I know that most say run a chevy and I understand why, but I have always wanted to be different from the rest. If I can be of help, let me know
Thanks, Chuck

[Chris Williams]

As usual, I agree (almost word for word) with Bill. Change the oil, lash the valves, rotate the slicks, check the brakes every 20 or so passes. Tear the engine down every winter, new valve springs, hone cylinders, check stuff over. Every other winter it's more detailed, and likely includes a few new go-faster parts. Every minute/dollar you spend in January pays dividends in July.

[Tweaker]

What would you say give or take is the average price if you took the motor somewhere to get freshened after the 150 passes or so etc.

And what about other parts like the Transmission? How often do you need to service etc? Etc.

C & W Racing, That is cool. Do you ever come down to Palm Beach International Raceway? Or ever plan on it? if so let me know I can come out and watch & learn from you. That is really cool but I seriously doubt though I can afford a 2008 Year Chassis with a 4 link. I would not be running Super Comp but local brackets in the Box class in the beginning years.

[Bill Baer]

Originally Posted by Tweaker

What would you say give or take is the average price if you took the motor somewhere to get freshened after the 150 passes or so etc.

And what about other parts like the Transmission? How often do you need to service etc? Etc.

.

If you stay on top of it you can get 250-300 passes I can't give you a accurate estimate on a complete motor freshen up as I do most of the labor myself but your probably looking at 3K in parts and 3-4 K in labor.

The other stuff:

The transmission I also disassemble every winter but, it usually is in good condition I would recommend you have yours inspected annually.

The torque converter is one item I can't and don't maintain myself I run them to failure or sell them after a couple of years. I know this is not what the Converter builders recommend but spending $300 to have a guy cut your converter open and tell you it's Ok and weld it back together every year or two just doesn't make sense to me because after it's opened and closed it still has the same number of fatigue cycles on the sprag, metal fins and the braze joints and there is a chance that if the clearances have been altered it may work differently.
The brakes I rebuild the calipers and reline them and change the fluid annually.
The ring and pinion I run to failure, the orginal set had more that 300 passes on it and the wear pattern looks fine.(I do flush and change the lube annually)
The slicks will go 150-200 passes (although most people change them every year.)

[Chris Williams]

For us:

- Motor: really depends on what they find. This past winter was an easy one, the bill was under $2k. Previous year it was almost $10k, but we also added the better part of 100hp doing it.

- Tranny: got tired of being nervous so I bought a complete spare setup (tranny and converter) this winter. Ouch... the better part of $5k. But I too run converters until there is a problem. Can be several years. Tranny, I have my guy look at it when I suspect a problem. New pump $450, new clutches and bands, something similar.

- Rear end: change the fluid every year, running till it dies, we're at well over 300 passes, got a long way to go.

- Brakes: inspect them every 20 or so passes, have a spare set of pads in the trailer to pop in when needed. That can be 200, 300 passes. Just top off the fluid once year.

- Tires: I think 100 is plenty on a set, but I know people who agree that you can get somewhere close to 200. They go until their 60's start to go away. Since I can't store my car in a heated space up off the concrete (lives in my trailer all winter), I buy a new set of slicks every spring, a new set of fronts every other. Slicks: $650, fronts: $350.

- Fluids: keep a lot around. Change oil and filter every 20-25 passes: 6 qts + filter. Tranny, drain and refill a lot it seems: ~7 qts. Rear ends: ~2-3 qts. Fuel: use about a drum and a half every year, ~$1500. Lucas Oil Slick Mist polish: about 3 bottles a year

Single biggest expense to drag racing: diesel fuel for the truck. Probably spend the better part of $6k a year on that.

HTH,
Chris

[Tweaker]

Thanks a lot for the information I will document this for myself for the future.

Since I have a lot of great guys providing information I have also started a list of what to look for when buying a used turn key RED. If you guys could provide any helpful tips or information to ensure I don't get ripped off when the day comes when i pick up a Used TK RED.

[Bill Baer]

Originally Posted by Tweaker

Thanks a lot for the information I will document this for myself for the future.

Since I have a lot of great guys providing information I have also started a list of what to look for when buying a used turn key RED. If you guys could provide any helpful tips or information to ensure I don't get ripped off when the day comes when i pick up a Used TK RED.

Well I'll start:

Chassis tag it must have a current chassis tag

Chassis tag it must have a current chassis tag

Do not buy a mild steel car almost all are chrome moly but, there are a few out there that are actually mild steel (IMO they are basically junk)

Get one that fits you .

Check the SFI dates on everything (look in the back of your NHRA rule book).

Ask the guy what kind of maintenance it requires, if he says "nothing" that probably exactly what he has done.

Look for quality parts Strange , Mark Williams Aerospace Engineering ect.

Like I said earlier ask to see it make a pass.

Don't even think about a front motor car unless you want to leave it to your grandson.

Look for quality and cleanliness If the guy took good care of it and or made a low number of passes with it it's probably spotless but if he put several hundred passes on it a year and just ran the living **** out of it, it will show.

If you can take your mentor along if he has owned these type of cars before he could be you best source of information.

Be patient look at several last time I looked there are about 500 of them for sale on racing junk.com

[Freddie]

Tweaker: I am just south of Tampa, Fla, and have some of the best Dragster guys around here. A good person to get a hold of when your ready would be Stanley Albritten Jr. he always knows af a car or two for sale and usually will vouch for the cars because he is the one maintaining them. Down your way there are alot of guys running PBIR on aregular basis who normally run T/D, I would check them out as well.

We just got our first Dragster, and bought it knowing it needed to be front halfed.. Otherwise the car is in great condition, just a minor bump in the nose area that caused some issues. Car is currently on our jig ready to weld back up, and hope to make the next divisional race with it.

If you need anything dont hesitate to ask, I dont mond helping out anyone either.