Tips on bleeding racing brakes

[dragracerray]

I just finished installing Strange front disc brakes (B4116WC2) and Strange Dual caliper rear brakes (B1718WCD2) on our Stock Eliminator car. I have been bleeding brakes since 1975. I could not get the air out of the system to get a firm pedal. The top caliper on each side of the rearend has horizontal bleeders. For sure there is a void with air inside the caliper above these bleeders. The first picture shows what the calipers look like when they are installed on the caliper brackets. Bleeding the brakes this way just does not work.
The second picture shows how I zip tied the top caliper so bleeders on both calipers are pointing straight up. On the first bleed I got spurts of air. In a couple minutes the brakes were bleed and the pedal was firm.
The third picture shows the front brakes. The bleeders on the front brakes do not point straight up but they bleed just fine while attached to the caliper bracket as shown in the picture.
Let me know if it works for you! love this site!

[Bob Mulry]

It's so easy a caveman could do it......

This is a trick from 1965 when Corvette made the transition to 4 wheel disc brakes...

Unbolt and remove the caliper from the mounting bracket with the brake line (hose) still attached, place a piece of wood or any other material between the pads and while your apprentice pumps the brakes up all you have to do is turn the caliper in whatever direction is needed so that the bleeder or bleeders face up and bleed the brakes as you would normally do..

I guaranty that you will be able to remove 100% of the air that is trapped in the caliper....

Just another old guy trick........

Just sayin'

[Kenney Kelley]

My brother has the same Brakes on 1 of his cars after bleeding them they were spongey. I only bleed 1 bleed port on each caliper. I later went back and rebleed them this time bleeding all the ports on the caliper if there is 1,2 or 4 ports on each caliper bleed them all, starting with the farthest caliper away from the master cylinder after each one is bleed fill up the master cylinder each time . This also includes the brake pressure switch and the brake pressure gauge. After doing that the car would stop on a dime. We also use 3/16 lines I don't remove the calibers to bleed them. I know this is elementary to a lot of racers but I hope it helps anyone that is having brake problems. Strange Brakes are good.

Kenney Kelley

[Ed Wright]

There ya go. Do what Bob said, starting with the furthest from the mater cylinder. Kind of a pain, but the bleeder has to be up.

[Bob Mulry]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

There ya go. Do what Bob said, starting with the furthest from the mater cylinder. Kind of a pain, but the bleeder has to be up.

Hi Ed,

Thanks for clarifying the process and do start at the furtherest...

Bob

[Kenny McCoy]

Can use this make less of a mess. https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...kit-69328.html

[nhramnl]

Pustelny taught me this years ago, and I have never had a brake bleeding problem since. It's completely in line with what others have posted. Gravity bleeding. Make sure all of the bleeders are vertical and facing up. Then fill the master cylinder and open all of the bleeders. Let gravity work for a few hours, periodically checking and topping-off the master cylinder and when you close the bleeders, you'll have brakes. As Buckwheat would say "It's as simple as dat".

[cad]

Originally Posted by Kenny McCoy

Can use this make less of a mess. https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...kit-69328.html

NO. I tried and about got arthritis on my 4 wheel disc that we just bled last weekend. It never sealed tight on the bleeders, therefore, NEVER even got the right rear bled.

Did it manually, old school.

Clark