|
![]() |
#1 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Vermont
Posts: 353
Likes: 9
Liked 233 Times in 52 Posts
|
![]()
My father has a 1966 Plymouth, converted to Mopar electronic ignition. We believe that the car has previously been raced, but he drives it on the street. It has the above voltage regulator on it, and he thinks the battery went bad way to quickly. I researched this on another site. A third of the people say this is a drag race only item, a third say it is fine to use on the street, as long as you ground it, and the last third claim to have used it on the street for years. Can I get some advice on this?
Thanks, Greg |
![]() |
![]() |
Liked |
![]() |
#2 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 495
Likes: 6
Liked 24 Times in 15 Posts
|
![]()
You can get a stock replacement voltage regulator for the 1970-1980s cars like a Standard Motor Products VR-125. They seem to be reliable if it is wired correctly.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...dge/model/dart
__________________
Mopar 2 Ya! |
![]() |
![]() |
Liked |
![]() |
#3 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Boulder City, Nevada 89005
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 2,247
Liked 1,890 Times in 583 Posts
|
![]()
Greg: I believe that # is "Constant Charge" voltage regulator is a race piece.
If you drive it on the street for extended periods of time...It will severely shorten the life of the battery. It inputs full output of the alternator's available amps into the battery and literally boil it to Death after a period of time on the road!
__________________
John Irving 741 Stock 741 Super Stock Last edited by GTX JOHN; 04-20-2020 at 02:45 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Western PA
Posts: 426
Likes: 6
Liked 241 Times in 126 Posts
|
![]()
John is correct here.
You need to use a 1966 replacement regulator with that setup. The Mopar instructions for the electronic ignition kits are very poor for the earlier cars. I just went through this a few years ago with my '65 Coronet. The part number you need is a Wells VR706. It's actually a modern style retrofit with a circuit board instead of the wire coil and point design. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 3,297
Liked 685 Times in 293 Posts
|
![]()
They are for sale on Amazon and this is the description:
"To ensure your ignition and electrical systems can provide maximum. performance, install a Mopar constant output voltage regulator. Voltage is held at a constant 13.5 volts. For race applications only. Mopar parts and accessories are engineered and built specifically for your vehicle providing the precise fit, finish and quality you can always expect from Mopar to keep your vehicle looking and running its best." |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Vermont
Posts: 353
Likes: 9
Liked 233 Times in 52 Posts
|
![]()
Thank you, everyone. This is not the first thing that we have found on this car that has been "less than ideal". Still, it's a fun car!
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Vermont
Posts: 353
Likes: 9
Liked 233 Times in 52 Posts
|
![]()
I can't find a Wells RV706. Is the Echlin VR32 an acceptable replacement?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,358
Likes: 360
Liked 282 Times in 152 Posts
|
![]()
Wells VR--VR not RV
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Western PA
Posts: 426
Likes: 6
Liked 241 Times in 126 Posts
|
![]()
That's a stock replacement with the breaker point inside. It will work, but I can't say for how long. I've had issues with those types from various parts stores. I seem to have better luck with the circuit board one, that's why I recommended it.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Pinckney, Michigan
Posts: 503
Likes: 360
Liked 234 Times in 63 Posts
|
![]()
Best thing to do is update to a 1970 or newer alternator and the electronic voltage regulator.
Pretty easy to do.
__________________
John Dinkel 3295 STK |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|