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11-04-2007, 04:13 PM | #1 |
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eagle rotating assemblies
are these eagle balanced rotating assemblies for big block 454 chevys ok ..you see them advertised with 4340 crank and h beam rods with srp pistons. for aound 2000$ are these a reliable way to go. my bracket motors dont see over 7000rpm. have any of you guys built motors with eagle stuff. do they last...thanks for any thoughts on this.
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11-04-2007, 05:04 PM | #2 |
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Re: eagle rotating assemblies
I've used them with no problems. My own previous dragster engine at 461 cubes makes probably 750 hp, alcohol injected and that engine is still running after over 5 seasons. Eagle-Eagle-SRP. 7300rpm every run.
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Rich Biebel S/C 1479 |
11-04-2007, 06:32 PM | #3 |
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Re: eagle rotating assemblies
never used eagle.so i have no input,but competition products.com has a u.s.a. made howards 4340 crank and rods and pistons with rings and bearings for $2359.i have it in my 496 camaro with jerico,it is the 13-1 cr kit.mostly on the street but more then a few 6900 rpm runs..hope this helps
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11-04-2007, 06:33 PM | #4 |
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Re: eagle rotating assemblies
cas,
I have checked the balance on a couple of them and they were pretty much right on. You absolutely have to measure everything at least twice. Big Ends and Small ends of rods, and the crank journals. about half of the ones I have seen need the crank ground to make them right, but when you figure the price they are still a good deal. I just ordered one for a Big Block Chrysler.
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Bill Koustenis |
11-04-2007, 11:34 PM | #5 |
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Re: eagle rotating assemblies
They have always been my choice. As stated have the crank blueprinted, as I've found their tolerances are too wide. Learned the hard way (2 broken motors in two years) that the ARP 8740 bolts don't hold up. Both motors were rod bolt failures. Upgrade to the L-19 7/16 and you'll be fine. Ran my 521 Ford and 514 Ford 6600 shifts and 6800 traps. The last motor has aprox 150 passes and the new owner is still running it with fresh bearings. I don't think I would run the cranks "out of the box" as I've always had my machinst check all the specs. and true them up and all have needed attention.
On a side note , be sure to run a good quality damper my choice is an ATI. |
11-05-2007, 12:07 AM | #6 |
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Re: eagle rotating assemblies
Dont run anything out of the box, check every piece, I still work in a machine shop. There is always something out of spec.
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11-05-2007, 12:57 AM | #7 |
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Re: eagle rotating assemblies
We've got a ton of Eagle stuff running. I check it religiously, but honestly, I've had ONE connecting rod that was small, and two 4.00" stroke Cleveland main journal cranks that were 0.001" too big on the mains. The cranks were so straight that it was no trouble to grind the 0.001" off. We haven't had anything break. Several 600HP plus small blocks have been running for years. Eagle is good stuff, it is moderately priced, and good quality. So long as you realize that you're not paying for Crower or Callies type quality and you can't expect Eagle to match that quality, you aren't likely to be disappointed.
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Alan Roehrich 212A G/S Last edited by Alan Roehrich; 11-05-2007 at 09:10 AM. |
11-05-2007, 07:54 AM | #8 |
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Re: eagle rotating assemblies
Eagle Cranks are usually sized all over the place so I've bought them ground .010-.010 new and at a cheaper price. I also juggled bearings to get the right clearance on a 4130 Eagle and it broke in half after a lot of runs in a heavy car. Rods have been ok. I ran the stock bolts for a few seasons with no problem and did upgrade to better bolts as I always replace rod bolts on rebuilds.
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Rich Biebel S/C 1479 |
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