HOME MAGAZINE FORUM RULES SPONSORS CONTACT
     
   
   
 
Go Back   CLASS RACER FORUM > Class Racer Forums > Stock and Super Stock Tech

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-06-2018, 07:07 AM   #1
RobbieRacer
Member
 
RobbieRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Phoenix, Az
Posts: 220
Default Brake bleeder

I need to buy a new, one man, brake bleeder. Who makes a really good, reasonably priced bleeder.
__________________
Building U/SA
79 Mustang
RobbieRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2018, 07:47 AM   #2
Jim Kaekel
VIP Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,025
Default Re: Brake bleeder

Motive Products "Power Bleeder". Not really powered but very reasonably priced and works well. Be sure you get the kit for your particular master cylinder.
__________________
Jim Kaekel 3836 STK
Jim Kaekel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2018, 09:09 AM   #3
nhramnl
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 300
Default Re: Brake bleeder

Pustelny taught me how to bleed brakes years ago, and I've never used another method since. Fill the system and open the bleeders. Once they're open, just keep checking and adding to the master cylinder reservoir. Let the system gravity-bleed for an hour or so, then close the bleeders, starting with the one furthest away from the master cylinder. You'll already have a decent pedal, so then have a helper put one slow pump on the pedal while you open the farthest away bleeder (you use one slow pump to avoid aerating the fluid). Then use the one slow pump technique and work your way from the right rear, to the left rear, right front, and left front, (don't let the master cylinder reservoir go empty) and your brakes will be bled.
nhramnl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2018, 03:22 PM   #4
black88coupe
Member
 
black88coupe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 296
Default Re: Brake bleeder

I JUST bought and used for the first time the Mity-Vac bleeder. The one that uses compressed air to create a vacuum. Not really happy with it’s performance. Maybe i just need to use it a few more times to learn its nuances? The pedal is not great and i will still have to have a helper pump the pedal so i can do it the old fashioned way. There is no way i would consider towing my trailer and car with my truck the way it is now. I paid about $110 through Amazon with a discount so im pretty bummed out with it’s performance so far. I put a vacuum gauge on it and it pulls about 18” of vacuum which seems plentiful for the task at hand but it falls short if you ask me.
__________________
Mitch Beri- The Motor City
1985 GT- “Stock-ish” 5.0 motor, AOD/ trans brake. 12.68 @ 10131mph.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/FOXBODYFLEAMARKET/

Last edited by black88coupe; 11-06-2018 at 03:26 PM.
black88coupe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2018, 04:50 PM   #5
CMcAllister
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Fulton County, PA
Posts: 196
Default Re: Brake bleeder

Quote:
Originally Posted by nhramnl View Post
Pustelny taught me how to bleed brakes years ago, and I've never used another method since. Fill the system and open the bleeders. Once they're open, just keep checking and adding to the master cylinder reservoir. Let the system gravity-bleed for an hour or so, then close the bleeders, starting with the one furthest away from the master cylinder. You'll already have a decent pedal, so then have a helper put one slow pump on the pedal while you open the farthest away bleeder (you use one slow pump to avoid aerating the fluid). Then use the one slow pump technique and work your way from the right rear, to the left rear, right front, and left front, (don't let the master cylinder reservoir go empty) and your brakes will be bled.

Same here. Street car, race car, never pump, just a push with the bleeder open, or you aerate the fluid. I will use a Mity-vac on an empty/new system to get it mostly filled, then go to the one push method to finish.
CMcAllister is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2018, 07:02 AM   #6
RobbieRacer
Member
 
RobbieRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Phoenix, Az
Posts: 220
Default Re: Brake bleeder

I had a Mity-vac. It sucked. Ill try old school first i guess. Drag the wife out to the garage. But i will look into Motive Products "Power Bleeder" too.
Thanks for the info.
__________________
Building U/SA
79 Mustang
RobbieRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2018, 07:33 AM   #7
Rich Biebel
VIP Member
 
Rich Biebel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northern New Jersey suburbs
Posts: 1,883
Default Re: Brake bleeder

Get a clear plastic hose that slips over the bleeder screw as tight as possible.

Drop it into a bottle of brake fluid and keep it so the tube stays submerged in the fluid.

Open bleeder screw but a small amount.

SLOWLY pump brakes a few times.

Start with the right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

One man and usually works perfect.

Gravity also work very well.

Newer vehicles with ABS.....turn key on, don't start it....also works well.
__________________
Rich Biebel
S/C 1479
Rich Biebel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2018, 08:07 AM   #8
FrankM
Junior Member
 
FrankM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 93
Default Re: Brake bleeder

I have the mityvac hand pump model (older unit) and have never liked it. Read on here to use the gravity method and it works great.
FrankM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2018, 08:42 AM   #9
Dragsinger
VIP Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Liberty City [East Texas]
Posts: 1,493
Default Re: Brake bleeder

As posted above, the hose in bottle method works well.

Also, I have not done so but I think the spring loaded bleeder screws would be a good option. [that is to say, the bleeder screw has a spring-loaded check ball. Seems reasonable in theory]
__________________
Larry Woodfin, GT super stock
471W
Dragsinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2018, 08:44 AM   #10
Tom Goldman
VIP Member
 
Tom Goldman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Allentown,PA
Posts: 2,101
Default Re: Brake bleeder

The gravity method works well with most cars with firewall mounted master cylinders.
The master cylinder should still be bench blead before installing ,since on many cars the master cyl. is not level and can trap air in the high point if not bench blead.
A helper pump on the pedal or a vacuum bleeder like a MightyVac is still necessary to remove all the air from the system.
Harbor Freight has the Mighty Vac bleeder kits for $43.00 ,I paid over a hundred from Snapon for the same one years ago and still use it.
One thing I'll mention is Drag Racers generally don't pay enough attention to brake fluid condition .
I maintain several road course cars that must have the fluid changed before they race an event....After 1 race the fluid is usually in terrible condition.
Our cars brakes are subjected to short periods of extreme heat followed by long periods of unuse. .. This is a perfect climate for fluid contamination and break down.
If your fluid is dark or cloudy looking change it .
At the very least it should be changed annually ,preferably at the end of the season ,so it is not stored over the winter with fluid that can contain moisture or other contaminants that will damage components.
__________________
Tom Goldman 1500 SG , 1506 STK
Tom Goldman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © Class Racer.com. All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners.Ad Management plugin by RedTyger