Hardblock?

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by David Lee

that has nothing to do with the other engines that do not have replacement blocks and you admitted

I build a lot of engines with OEM blocks and no problems to date.

so i do not see what your problem is. Either we need to some how get blocks that do not exist or use the blocks we have.

I am planning on sleeving a 318 block and getting it bored to 273 specs.
And your personal attacks are not doing a thing.

Sounds like your an engine assembler not an engine builder that does his own work and has the right equipment to the job.

Big difference between you and I if that's the case.

[David Lee]

Originally Posted by carl hinkson

Sounds like your an engine assembler not an engine builder that does his own work and has the right equipment to the job.

Big difference between you and I if that's the case.

Yes there is a big difference between us. And it has nothing to do with racing. And the person advising me is quite adept at doing his own building and machining, and build some very competitive engines. I am done with your childish antics.

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by carl hinkson

My rule of thumb if you have to fill the block your using the wrong block,


Cylinders change during heat cycles and and never come back to the original machined size.

Carl , I think David's point should be well taken.
You're not using the wrong block, if there is no replacement available.
The last block that I filled , did not have a replacement.
After several no. 1 qualifiers and a Nat'l record, it never dawned on me that I was using the wrong block.
Perhaps you should have qualified that statement at the outset. Just sayin' .

[James L Miller]

Mark, thank you for standing up for those of us that want to run an odd-ball (Non-Chevy) combo. I didn't see a Mopar 273 on Carl's website.

http://hinksonautomotive-cncblocks.com/products/

[Bill Bogues]

On our 267 chevy we took a 305 block and sleeved it down to 3.50. Didn't fill it and had reasonably thick cylinder walls. Still leaks 2 to 4%after 60 runs. Aftermarket block is the best way to go but we ended up with a decent block for half the price of aftermarket.

[David Lee]

Originally Posted by Bill Bogues

On our 267 chevy we took a 305 block and sleeved it down to 3.50. Didn't fill it and had reasonably thick cylinder walls. Still leaks 2 to 4%after 60 runs. Aftermarket block is the best way to go but we ended up with a decent block for half the price of aftermarket.

Do you think adding hardblock would have helped the leakdown?

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by Bill Bogues

On our 267 chevy we took a 305 block and sleeved it down to 3.50. Didn't fill it and had reasonably thick cylinder walls. Still leaks 2 to 4%after 60 runs. Aftermarket block is the best way to go but we ended up with a decent block for half the price of aftermarket.

From what I have seen with sleeving blocks and more so all eight sleeves put a lot of unwanted stress in the block and after a few heat cycle the cylinders don't stay round.

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by James L Miller

Mark, thank you for standing up for those of us that want to run an odd-ball (Non-Chevy) combo. I didn't see a Mopar 273 on Carl's website.

http://hinksonautomotive-cncblocks.com/products/

I have no interest in CNC machining Mopar blocks not much call over the years so its not worth tooling up for a block you might do once a year