Hardblock? - Page 3

James L Miller · 06-08-2017, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Lee

I guess the real cure without buying a 3K block and getting thick walls, would be to sleeve a 318 to 273 bore size

My engine builder wanted to get a standard bore 340 block and sleeve it down to the 273 size. If I wanted to build a killer 273, then I'd do that but I want to keep the costs down. It quickly looked like a $20k engine if he was going to build it. I don't think an R3 block would be that much better since it would still need to be sleeved down.

It looks like I should have started a separate thread on the 273. I thought the hardblock info would carry over between the brands, but it looks like things got corn-fused.

randy wilson · 06-08-2017, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richie 2

do we fill the bowtie/dart blocks?

No.

David Lee · 06-08-2017, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James L Miller

My engine builder wanted to get a standard bore 340 block and sleeve it down to the 273 size. If I wanted to build a killer 273, then I'd do that but I want to keep the costs down. It quickly looked like a $20k engine if he was going to build it. I don't think an R3 block would be that much better since it would still need to be sleeved down.

It looks like I should have started a separate thread on the 273. I thought the hardblock info would carry over between the brands, but it looks like things got corn-fused.

I agree with you 100%.

richie 2 · 06-08-2017, 04:19 PM

hey... we all want a good block !!!

Monte Howard · 06-08-2017, 05:58 PM

Save yourself the aggravation, I hard blocked my 010 block and went .060. With new cp pistons. After the 1st pass the car slowed down. Made about 20 more runs on it. Tore it apart this winter and the cylinders where .008 out of round. And my new pistons skirts where scuffed really bad. Do yourself a favor and just get a SHP block and be done with it.

carl hinkson · 06-08-2017, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monte Howard

Save yourself the aggravation, I hard blocked my 010 block and went .060. With new cp pistons. After the 1st pass the car slowed down. Made about 20 more runs on it. Tore it apart this winter and the cylinders where .008 out of round. And my new pistons skirts where scuffed really bad. Do yourself a favor and just get a SHP block and be done with it.

Best advise ever !!!!!!

I was going to post that as I have seen what you observed with your build but most think I post that to sell new blocks.

carl hinkson · 06-08-2017, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony Goodman

I believe a Dart SHP block is less than $2000. There is also the money you will spend on the stock block you will not have to spend on the after market block. Filling, cleaning, checking... So that cost can be deducted off the price of an after market block also.

You can buy an SHP block all machined and shipped for that kind of money.

Things that should be addressed when having one of those blocks machined.

– Main housing bores chamfered
– Freeze plug holes and rear cam hole are chamfered
– Line honed to at least the middle of the spec or high side if needed
– Decked to your demension
– Bore to your spec
– Plate honed using the same gasket and hardware that will be used in the end build
– Lifter bores checked and honed to the lifters that will be used in the end build
– Top of lifter bores chamfered
– Bottom of the cylinders chamfered
– Tap oil galley holes deeper
– Chamfer Distributor hole for O rings.

David Lee · 06-08-2017, 06:36 PM

that is great advice for chevy people, how about small block mopars?

carl hinkson · 06-08-2017, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Lee

that is great advice for chevy people, how about small block mopars?

Those blocks are hard to come by .

Check with Ray Barton

Paul Precht · 06-08-2017, 10:52 PM

I use Halco Machine Grout in the BB Chryslers and never had any out of round issues. Is the Hardblock the issue or is it because the Chevy blocks are softer and maybe thinner. I'd love to have one of the new aftermarket BB Chrysler blocks avail but at 4K that probably wont happen. I use the 413 industrial blocks for my 63 and they are about .300" before machining but filled a standard 383 block for my Challenger about 3 years ago and haven't machined it yet so I think it's cured by now. How long are the people who had trouble with the Chev's waiting before machining.

06-08-2017, 04:19 PM	#24
richie 2 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 918 Likes: 321 Liked 157 Times in 73 Posts	Re: Hardblock? hey... we all want a good block !!!

06-08-2017, 05:58 PM	#25
Monte Howard Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Potomac,IL Posts: 268 Likes: 1 Liked 48 Times in 14 Posts	Re: Hardblock? Save yourself the aggravation, I hard blocked my 010 block and went .060. With new cp pistons. After the 1st pass the car slowed down. Made about 20 more runs on it. Tore it apart this winter and the cylinders where .008 out of round. And my new pistons skirts where scuffed really bad. Do yourself a favor and just get a SHP block and be done with it. __________________ Monte Howard 3209 STK, 3208 SS

06-08-2017, 06:36 PM	#28
David Lee VIP Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,097 Likes: 404 Liked 250 Times in 101 Posts	Re: Hardblock? that is great advice for chevy people, how about small block mopars?

06-08-2017, 10:52 PM	#30
Paul Precht Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Elysburg, Pa Posts: 690 Likes: 281 Liked 224 Times in 89 Posts	Re: Hardblock? I use Halco Machine Grout in the BB Chryslers and never had any out of round issues. Is the Hardblock the issue or is it because the Chevy blocks are softer and maybe thinner. I'd love to have one of the new aftermarket BB Chrysler blocks avail but at 4K that probably wont happen. I use the 413 industrial blocks for my 63 and they are about .300" before machining but filled a standard 383 block for my Challenger about 3 years ago and haven't machined it yet so I think it's cured by now. How long are the people who had trouble with the Chev's waiting before machining.