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09-16-2017, 04:02 PM | #11 |
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Re: 8 3/4 and a 4spd
A friend of mine put an 8 and 3/4 under his F body, ran it two years, never broke it. High 10's in the quarter at 3,100 lbs. just my experience.
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09-16-2017, 09:14 PM | #12 |
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Re: 8 3/4 and a 4spd
Depends on flywheel. If it's a steel 30# it will not stand up, rip the teeth off the ring gear. Something with adjustability maybe you can make it work. Good luck
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09-16-2017, 09:16 PM | #13 |
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Re: 8 3/4 and a 4spd
Well, as Emily Litella used to say, "Never Mind".
I'll probably use the 8-3/4" in my Dart with the 273 but will have a 904TF to cushion the blow.
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Mopar 2 Ya! Last edited by James L Miller; 09-17-2017 at 11:44 PM. Reason: Got outvoted! |
09-16-2017, 10:15 PM | #14 |
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Re: 8 3/4 and a 4spd
By the time you do all the 8 3/4 fixes you will realize you coulda had a Dana. But by all means put an 8 3/4 in it. If you want to clean out your 8 3/4 parts supply. Always enough money to do it over but never enough money to do it right.
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09-16-2017, 10:19 PM | #15 |
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Re: 8 3/4 and a 4spd
Dana, set it and forget it.
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09-17-2017, 01:12 AM | #16 |
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Re: 8 3/4 and a 4spd
Gotta agree on the Dana 60. I don`t race a MoPar, but I do have a low 10, high 9 second Ford bracket car that I have been racing with a 4 speed for 17 years, with a Dana 60.From 1988 thru 1999, I ran the same car with an automatic and transbrake, using a 9" with 33 spline spool & axles.
When I switched the car over to the 4 speed Jerico, I decided my existing 9 inch was not enough, and after some researching, it was actually cheaper to sell my old 9" and build a Dana 60. The Dana has beem absolutely bulletproof for 17 years of 6000 plus RPM clutch dumps. From what I understand about 8 3/4s is that with the lower gear ratios, the teeth on the ring gear get really short, and tend to break. I know several MoPar racers that spent a lot of time and money using, breaking, and repairing their 8 3/4s, before biting the bullet and either doing a Dana 60 or a 9" Ford (when rules allow), and I can`t recall any of them that went with a Dana not saying that they wish they would have done it years earlier. If you have a bunch of 8 3/4" stuff, I would sell it and use that money towards the Dana.
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09-17-2017, 04:51 PM | #17 |
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Re: 8 3/4 and a 4spd
Another vote for the Dana 60. You will not regret going with the Dana. The 8 ¾ might hold up in your application for a while, but the likelihood of breakage is probably good. Have a small block stocker with a Jerico, and have had zero issues since installing the Dana 60. Can’t tell you how many 8 ¾ gear sets I broke before the Dana (slow learner). Also, there’s another Class Racer thread about the efficiency of the Dana 60 vs. other axles due to its hypoid gear pressure angle – Mr. Greene alluded to that. Another bonus!
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09-17-2017, 11:13 PM | #18 |
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Re: 8 3/4 and a 4spd
As someone who has run this combo in A and B bodies for over 2 decades I can tell you that it will eat 8 3/4 ring and pinions like a kid eating Halloween candy. A slow stick car needs to be built like an A car if you want it to be reliable and live. A Dana 60 will end the work on that part of the car. Then again I have been told I build slow cars to overkill. My U/S belvedere ate 2 ring and pinions in 3 races and that was the end of the 8 3/4.
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09-18-2017, 10:11 AM | #19 |
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Re: 8 3/4 and a 4spd
Might add to above (from who I would do whatever he told me) if you ain't spinning, you're breaking. Something has to slip or flex. It's all about the launch and once you make it "soft" on the rear, you're not getting the full potential out of your car. IMO.
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09-19-2017, 12:27 PM | #20 |
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Re: 8 3/4 and a 4spd
My personal experience replacing a 8 3/4 with a standard, no tricks Dana 60 is that the car ran the same. I was not able to take out any weight. In a car that you could remove ballast in my opinion the Dana would be faster. Plus in anything but a very high horsepower car it will last forever.
Bill |
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