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Old 10-18-2011, 05:55 PM   #1
bogger01
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Default new to bracket racing

ok fellas i'm new here so be patient.i am going to be running my 78 chevy c10 truck in footbrake this spring and need some tips.ihave done a little racing in a super pro rear engine dragster but that was about it.the truck has been lowered a little and as far as the chassis goes thats about it.the engine is a slightley modified small block with an unknown cam and reworked 040 gm heads.i am looking for carburetor,intake,tracton bars and anything i can do to the chassis to help with consistincy.the budjet is small but have some set back for it.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:58 PM   #2
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Wink Re: new to bracket racing

I'd be concerned about tire spin. You want to make sure you'll hook up. Many pickups, especially those without positraction, will kick the tires loose even with a mildly modified engine. Get it to hook and don't worry about how slow it is, for now, you can make it faster later once you get the traction issue sorted out. Good luck,, have fun.
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:00 PM   #3
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Default Re: new to bracket racing

You can find a positraction unit for your truck in most junk yard, look for a van with a posi. You will be surprise to find that many service trucks for large fleets came with posi unit(GM gave many fleet posi at no charge). You can find some as I did with ratio as high as 4.10:1. Try to relocate the battery to the back and add one air shock to the right side, leave the spare under the bed to help in weight distribution. Good luck
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:40 AM   #4
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Default Re: new to bracket racing

thanks for the tips.i plan to move the battery to the ear.i think i have also found myself a rear with positive traction.as a side question are the larger carburetors less affected by temp and hunidity changes.i can only go but so big on my setup but was just curious.thanks
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:47 PM   #5
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Default Re: new to bracket racing

Quote:
Originally Posted by bogger01 View Post
thanks for the tips.i plan to move the battery to the ear.i think i have also found myself a rear with positive traction.as a side question are the larger carburetors less affected by temp and hunidity changes.i can only go but so big on my setup but was just curious.thanks
Yep your correct! The less the restriction in the intake track the less the pressure drop across the carb the less affected it will be by temp and humidity. Resultantly tunnel rams with two carbs set up correctly can actually be more consistent than one smaller carb.
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Old 10-21-2011, 07:00 PM   #6
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Default Re: new to bracket racing

i see.but how big is too big.like i said i have a small block (357 c.i.) with reworked 040gm heads and a performance cam of an unkown make and size and a factory aluminum intake.i have been told 650 cfm was as big as i could go.any thoughts
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Old 10-21-2011, 07:03 PM   #7
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Default Re: new to bracket racing

850 dp.
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:18 AM   #8
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Smile Re: new to bracket racing

Quote:
Originally Posted by bogger01 View Post
i see.but how big is too big.like i said i have a small block (357 c.i.) with reworked 040gm heads and a performance cam of an unkown make and size and a factory aluminum intake.i have been told 650 cfm was as big as i could go.any thoughts
There is a formula :Racing carb cfm = rpm x displacement / 3456 x 1.1 so it depends on how high your going to twist it @ 7000 RPM it comes out 795CFM so I would use a 750 the vacumn secondary (3310) being the easist to live with on a street car of the double pumper for race use only.
Now if you do the math an spin it 10000 RPm you need about 1136 CFM and in that case a tunnel ram and two carbs would be the ticket.
Note there are a lot of other varibles to be considered cam size ignition timing (intial lead and curve speed) collector length and torque converter stall and keep in mind that formula is for a dedicated race car.
The street formula is Street carb cfm = rpm x displacement / 3456 x 0.85.
Hope this helps.
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Last edited by Bill Baer; 10-26-2011 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:12 PM   #9
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Default Re: new to bracket racing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Baer View Post
There is a formula :Racing carb cfm = rpm x displacement / 3456 x 1.1 so it depends on how high your going to twist it @ 7000 RPM it comes out 795CFM so I would use a 750 the vacumn secondary (3310) being the easist to live with on a street car of the double pumper for race use only.
Now if you do the math an spin it 10000 RPm you need about 1136 CFM and in that case a tunnel ram and two carbs would be the ticket.
Note there are a lot of other varibles to be considered cam size ignition timing (intial lead and curve speed) collector length and torque converter stall and keep in mind that formula is for a dedicated race car.
The street formula is Street carb cfm = rpm x displacement / 3456 x 0.85.
Hope this helps.
That is fine for a street car, If you want a bracket car that will repeat the 850dp is the way to go.
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