Red Lights - Page 2

alteredu · 06-15-2011, 04:16 PM

Been there done that. First, let’s address the Biondo button. Whether it is slowing down with all the spacers removed is a function of how you are releasing the button. If you have all the spacers out, and are sliding your thumb or finger off the button, and letting it snap open, it actually gets faster with all the spacers out because the spring is getting stronger. It only slows down to about half the stroke if you’re slipping your release digit off the button because of the increase spring pressure. If you are pulling your arm all the way up and keeping your thumb on the button, you will see a slight decrease in time. Another important thing is the motion you are releasing the button with your arm. Believe it or not, trying to be fast makes you inconsistent. Having the same motion, and using the same muscles every time is very important. Doing a consistent release without being hyped up will make you very consistent, also not being hyped up will slow you down.
If you have a glide with an aftermarket case, you can slow down the transbrake release. There is a bolt by the transbrake solenoid that is adjustable. Most cases six turns out is max fluid release. If you screw this in all the way, then back it out 1.5 to 2 turns, it will slow down the fluid release and give you some additional time.
Yes, tire pressure will technically help, but I have found that front tire pressure does not make that much difference. I think the most important thing about rear tire pressure is if it is giving you consistent 60 FT times. If it is, my theory is that it is more important to be consistent than trying to slow the car down with rear tire pressure and perhaps making the car less consistent.
But, the most important thing is how you release the button. Blocking off the lights with tape on your shield works for some people. The challenge can be when to come up on the converter. Some people can figure it out, and some people can’t. Myself, I can’t have anything in my mind but releasing the button when I am looking at the light. If I am thinking about what I do next, I screw up. I have had to change my routine so I am not thinking about anything but the release. Another thing that helps is writing down what you’re doing, and review it before you enter the beams. Example, I always replete these things out loud to myself before staging. 1. Stage carefully and shallow. 2. Cut a .010 light. 3. After the second bulb, stare deep into the bulb and don’t have any other thoughts. 4. Have a consistent release. These things have worked for me, hopefully some of the might help others. FYI, chipping down will help, but if you are picking the wheels, it might hurt because it gives the motor a bigger run on the converter. Perhaps try getting closer to your stall and see how that works.

BillConiam7375 · 10-28-2011, 10:06 PM

I use the Biondo brake button at full delay. After running the front and rear tires about as low as I'm comfortable - One by one I've put fresh shocks on the front at 70/30 instead of 90/10 and moved the ladder bars up one and am pretty happy. It's time for wheels (old monocoque stars are flimsy and tired) and tires: thinking about the possibility of two things: 1) bead locks - they seem more durable than self tapping screws through an aluminum wheel and I don't imaging them negatively affecting the RT and 2) a narrower tire - thinking thaat they might get a half a rotation of the tire to slow the reaction time a bit more. If I go smaller from 32x14 like to a 10 or 12" tire I might then be forced to go a bit shorter too...which might change the effective gear ratio and therefore REDUCE the RT - your thoughts?

BillConiam7375 · 10-29-2011, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alteredu

Been there done that. First, let’s address the Biondo button. Whether it is slowing down with all the spacers removed is a function of how you are releasing the button. If you have all the spacers out, and are sliding your thumb or finger off the button, and letting it snap open, it actually gets faster with all the spacers out because the spring is getting stronger. It only slows down to about half the stroke if you’re slipping your release digit off the button because of the increase spring pressure. If you are pulling your arm all the way up and keeping your thumb on the button, you will see a slight decrease in time. Another important thing is the motion you are releasing the button with your arm. Believe it or not, trying to be fast makes you inconsistent. Having the same motion, and using the same muscles every time is very important. Doing a consistent release without being hyped up will make you very consistent, also not being hyped up will slow you down.
If you have a glide with an aftermarket case, you can slow down the transbrake release. There is a bolt by the transbrake solenoid that is adjustable. Most cases six turns out is max fluid release. If you screw this in all the way, then back it out 1.5 to 2 turns, it will slow down the fluid release and give you some additional time.
Yes, tire pressure will technically help, but I have found that front tire pressure does not make that much difference. I think the most important thing about rear tire pressure is if it is giving you consistent 60 FT times. If it is, my theory is that it is more important to be consistent than trying to slow the car down with rear tire pressure and perhaps making the car less consistent.
But, the most important thing is how you release the button. Blocking off the lights with tape on your shield works for some people. The challenge can be when to come up on the converter. Some people can figure it out, and some people can’t. Myself, I can’t have anything in my mind but releasing the button when I am looking at the light. If I am thinking about what I do next, I screw up. I have had to change my routine so I am not thinking about anything but the release. Another thing that helps is writing down what you’re doing, and review it before you enter the beams. Example, I always replete these things out loud to myself before staging. 1. Stage carefully and shallow. 2. Cut a .010 light. 3. After the second bulb, stare deep into the bulb and don’t have any other thoughts. 4. Have a consistent release. These things have worked for me, hopefully some of the might help others. FYI, chipping down will help, but if you are picking the wheels, it might hurt because it gives the motor a bigger run on the converter. Perhaps try getting closer to your stall and see how that works.

Sorry I didnt see this reply before may last post.

I use an abreviated version of your staging procedure that includes steps for relaxation and consistent breathing. I also have gone to using the palm of my hand to slow down the trans brake release.

Interested in trying the increased RPM once the car is reassembled following year-end maint.

Thanks once again - Bill

Rick Unterseh · 11-03-2011, 02:48 PM

Bill,
You could always let me drive,,,,,, that way, you would never red light again......

Just a thought.

Rick

BillConiam7375 · 11-05-2011, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Unterseh

Bill,
You could always let me drive,,,,,, that way, you would never red light again......

Just a thought.

Rick

LOL!

Just the opposite, I used to like working on cars, any more I'd just like to drive other people's Stock Eliminator cars like back in Division 3... know anybody?

BillConiam7375 · 11-05-2011, 10:29 AM

It's time for wheels (old monocoque stars are flimsy and tired) and tires: thinking about the possibility of two things: 1) bead locks - they seem more durable than self tapping screws through an aluminum wheel and I don't imagine them negatively affecting my RT problem and

2) a narrower tire - thinking that they might get a half a rotation of the tire to slow the reaction time a bit more. If I go smaller from 32x14 like to a 10 or 12" tire I might then be forced to go a bit shorter too...which might change the effective gear ratio and therefore REDUCE the RT

(although the shorter the tire, the smaller the actual footprint of contact on the track, so maybe more likely to have the ratio effect the 60ft than the RT?) - your thoughts?

06-15-2011, 04:16 PM	#11
alteredu Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 1 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Red Lights Been there done that. First, let’s address the Biondo button. Whether it is slowing down with all the spacers removed is a function of how you are releasing the button. If you have all the spacers out, and are sliding your thumb or finger off the button, and letting it snap open, it actually gets faster with all the spacers out because the spring is getting stronger. It only slows down to about half the stroke if you’re slipping your release digit off the button because of the increase spring pressure. If you are pulling your arm all the way up and keeping your thumb on the button, you will see a slight decrease in time. Another important thing is the motion you are releasing the button with your arm. Believe it or not, trying to be fast makes you inconsistent. Having the same motion, and using the same muscles every time is very important. Doing a consistent release without being hyped up will make you very consistent, also not being hyped up will slow you down. If you have a glide with an aftermarket case, you can slow down the transbrake release. There is a bolt by the transbrake solenoid that is adjustable. Most cases six turns out is max fluid release. If you screw this in all the way, then back it out 1.5 to 2 turns, it will slow down the fluid release and give you some additional time. Yes, tire pressure will technically help, but I have found that front tire pressure does not make that much difference. I think the most important thing about rear tire pressure is if it is giving you consistent 60 FT times. If it is, my theory is that it is more important to be consistent than trying to slow the car down with rear tire pressure and perhaps making the car less consistent. But, the most important thing is how you release the button. Blocking off the lights with tape on your shield works for some people. The challenge can be when to come up on the converter. Some people can figure it out, and some people can’t. Myself, I can’t have anything in my mind but releasing the button when I am looking at the light. If I am thinking about what I do next, I screw up. I have had to change my routine so I am not thinking about anything but the release. Another thing that helps is writing down what you’re doing, and review it before you enter the beams. Example, I always replete these things out loud to myself before staging. 1. Stage carefully and shallow. 2. Cut a .010 light. 3. After the second bulb, stare deep into the bulb and don’t have any other thoughts. 4. Have a consistent release. These things have worked for me, hopefully some of the might help others. FYI, chipping down will help, but if you are picking the wheels, it might hurt because it gives the motor a bigger run on the converter. Perhaps try getting closer to your stall and see how that works.

10-28-2011, 10:06 PM	#12
BillConiam7375 Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 14 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Red Lights I use the Biondo brake button at full delay. After running the front and rear tires about as low as I'm comfortable - One by one I've put fresh shocks on the front at 70/30 instead of 90/10 and moved the ladder bars up one and am pretty happy. It's time for wheels (old monocoque stars are flimsy and tired) and tires: thinking about the possibility of two things: 1) bead locks - they seem more durable than self tapping screws through an aluminum wheel and I don't imaging them negatively affecting the RT and 2) a narrower tire - thinking thaat they might get a half a rotation of the tire to slow the reaction time a bit more. If I go smaller from 32x14 like to a 10 or 12" tire I might then be forced to go a bit shorter too...which might change the effective gear ratio and therefore REDUCE the RT - your thoughts?

11-03-2011, 02:48 PM	#14
Rick Unterseh Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 133 Likes: 3 Liked 31 Times in 7 Posts	Re: Red Lights Bill, You could always let me drive,,,,,, that way, you would never red light again...... Just a thought. Rick

11-05-2011, 10:29 AM	#16
BillConiam7375 Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 14 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Red Lights It's time for wheels (old monocoque stars are flimsy and tired) and tires: thinking about the possibility of two things: 1) bead locks - they seem more durable than self tapping screws through an aluminum wheel and I don't imagine them negatively affecting my RT problem and 2) a narrower tire - thinking that they might get a half a rotation of the tire to slow the reaction time a bit more. If I go smaller from 32x14 like to a 10 or 12" tire I might then be forced to go a bit shorter too...which might change the effective gear ratio and therefore REDUCE the RT (although the shorter the tire, the smaller the actual footprint of contact on the track, so maybe more likely to have the ratio effect the 60ft than the RT?) - your thoughts?