Onan Aux Issue

[Davey Summa]

Not sure if this has been asked before but I have an issue I was hoping somebody may have encountered and can help.
My Onan unit in my race trailer is an ONAN AUX, 6.5 RV GEN SET.
It started kinda missing here and there and would shut down after running for roughly an hour or slightly under. It would start back up and run fine for approx. the same time and repeat. Then the last shut off, it would start back up but the moment I release the start button it just shuts off.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. can either post here or my email is davidsumma@windstream.net

Thanks,
Davey Summa
SUMMA PERFORMANCE
724-336-2785 SHOP
724-601-0219 CELL

[Sean Marconette]

Will it continue to run if you spray carb cleaner into the carb? Do you have 12 VDC at the fuel pump and carb solenoid valve?

Sean

[Rich Biebel]

David I need the Model designation letters off the ID label to be able to look up the machine you have.

I have not seen many of those so I am not real familiar with them.

Is it a diesel? The models I am thinking of were diesels....

[Davey Summa]

The MODEL: 6.5NH-3CR/23001P
The SERIAL: L873306308

It is a gas unit. I installed a new FACET Gold pump. It is in a Gold Rush Trailer that has been in storage for some time prior to purchasing it. I did run a hot wire from the battery and it made no difference. Like I said it fires right up, but shuts down as soon as I let go of the start switch. { either switch...on the unit or at the wall panel}
Thanks, Davey

[Rich Biebel]

Ok David that is an old gas unit..

Has points and condenser and a coil and all that has to be good.
The engine has a low oil pressure switch. That could be your problem. Some were 2 terminal and close with pressure. That completes the 12v power for the ignition. If it has a 2 wire switch you can jump it and see if it runs with it jumped out. The switch is mounted above the oil filter on most of the old flathead Onan engines...

The switch can be tested with an ohmmeter. Whatever it reads engine off......it should be the opposite running.

N/O = normally open.....and that should close running
N/C = normally closed...and that should open running

2 wire closes or opens across the 2 terminals
1 wire closes or opens to the switches body....which will be grounded at the engine when it is screwed in.

[Davey Summa]

I really appreciate the help as these generators are not my specialty. I will check as your saying...starting with changing over and doing away with points.....if you have that it would help me out also.
Davey

[Rich Biebel]

David I work on newer machines primarily so we do not keep parts on the shelf for an older machine like that.

I would not worry about the points since that is not likely your problem.

Not sure if anyone even makes a kit to eliminate the points.

I did try to install one of those kits on an old BF but it did not work properly. Had to stay with the points.

You can jump a 12v+ wire to the coil+ terminal and see if it stays running.

That would pretty much tell you the ignition 12+ power is not being supplied after you let go of the start button.

These machines are not complicated by todays standards....

[Davey Summa]

hooked a jumper wire from the battery to the coil: Started right up and ran fine.....LOL....now what do I replace????

[Rich Biebel]

Oil pressure switch....

[Davey Summa]

I installed a new oil pressure switch. Still doing the same. I have to unplug the oil pressure switch and run the hot wire to the coil for it to start and run.

? what might be my next step?

Davey