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07-31-2019, 08:08 PM | #1 |
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Electric Water Pump damage
What is causing this damage to the inside of my electric water pump, and what can I do to stop it. I run just water in the system,and drain it in the fall.
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07-31-2019, 08:48 PM | #2 |
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
I always understood when you let air get to wet metal it still corroded. I always leave the water in. How about electrolysis?
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07-31-2019, 09:33 PM | #3 |
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
Lyn run the Lucas (* it works) cooling system additive or the redline water wetter. Both are good for aluminum blocks/heads/intakes/water pumps. It won’t allow it to corrode
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Duane Eiskant 1354 Stock/Super Stock |
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08-01-2019, 09:28 AM | #4 |
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
Lyn,
Wix, #24056 cooling system treatment is also a good product and available at most auto parts stores. It is around $7.00 per quart.
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Larry Woodfin 471W |
08-01-2019, 11:45 AM | #5 |
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
What fluid do you run in the coolant system? Tap water could have some metals that will attack aluminum. Excess acidity can corrode it to. Check the Ph level of the water you use with a test kit. I run distilled water only and drained the block and pulled the water pump to change the cam this week. Lots of rust in the water but no damage to the WP.
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Dale Shearon 68 Mustang 6394 |
08-01-2019, 12:03 PM | #6 |
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
The debate will continue about what water to use. I do know that some coolant additives state not to use distilled water. I stick to filtered drinking water for my car.
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08-01-2019, 03:08 PM | #7 |
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
I use Red LINE.
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John Dinkel 3295 STK |
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08-01-2019, 05:06 PM | #8 |
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
I use distilled water and add Zerex Super Protector[ZXC04] bought at Napa was in car for 2 years and drained it this winter to change intake, intake water ports looked like new and not sign of electrolysis also run a anode in radiator petcock fitting
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08-01-2019, 06:47 PM | #9 |
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
Mr. Smith and others,
IF the surface we are looking at in the pic is aluminum (ie: non-ferrous), the problem is specifically from natural electrical action to corrode the material. IF that is the case, the original surface should have been anodized so as to decrease the action but would be better to use a sacrificial anode in the cooling system as well. IF originally anodized, any scratch through the finish accelerates the problem. IF the surface is supposed to be ferrous, it is surprising that it shows no ferrous oxide (rust) residue. So, it appears to be non-ferrous. Either way, there are no negatives to use a sacrificial anode in the cooling system. Those type anodes are available at any hardware store or at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Regards to All that like this kind of stuff, HB2 Dissident |
08-01-2019, 09:38 PM | #10 |
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
Thanks for the info everyone. Someone please post a picture of a anode.I know if I go into the H ware store and ask the lady for a anode, I will get that funny look.LOL
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