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Old 06-07-2017, 11:05 AM   #11
James L Miller
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Default Re: Hardblock?

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Originally Posted by GTX JOHN View Post
.130 at Std. Bore is rather thin.

Might be worth checking a few more blocks.

If that is on thrust side I personally would not like to us that block.

Suggest filling it to within a inch or 1 1/2 to top of water passage if
I did use it.
John, I've attached the sonic check of the three 273 blocks I had sonic checked in January. The "orange" block checked worse than the "greasy" and "rusty" blocks. None of them were all they great. I think I will build a 2bbl engine with one of them, save the best for a 4bbl engine after I get my feet wet (hopefully not literally) with the 2bbl engine on building Stocker engines.
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Old 06-07-2017, 02:50 PM   #12
richie 2
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Default Re: Hardblock?

Im trying to build a "seat time" unit togeather. bowtie or dart is not in the budget. using pistons from the 80's w/low runs. what did everyone do before filler came along? thankyou everyone for your input, keep them coming...

Last edited by richie 2; 06-07-2017 at 04:10 PM.
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Old 06-07-2017, 03:09 PM   #13
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Default Re: Hardblock?

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Im trying to build a "seat time" unit togeather. bowtie or dart is not in the budget. using pistons from the 80's w/low runs. what dis everyone do befor filler came along? thankyou everyone for your input, keep them coming...
Years ago a stocker was only allowed .035 over. The stock blocks were pretty good at that size. Now with the more overbore the need for block fill or the better aftermarket blocks is needed. I personally have not had good luck filling the stock blocks and running at .060 . several have cracked the cylinders. You will be much better off to save a few bucks and get the aftermarket block. They are much stronger in the cylinder walls and deck. The bores will stay round and straight. The lifter bores are also very accurate on the aftermarket blocks. Believe me it will be money well spent. I wont even fool around with stock blocks any more and its real hard to find the older 4 bolt main blocks that are the best.
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Old 06-07-2017, 03:50 PM   #14
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Default Re: Hardblock?

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Originally Posted by James L Miller View Post
John, I've attached the sonic check of the three 273 blocks I had sonic checked in January. The "orange" block checked worse than the "greasy" and "rusty" blocks. None of them were all they great. I think I will build a 2bbl engine with one of them, save the best for a 4bbl engine after I get my feet wet (hopefully not literally) with the 2bbl engine on building Stocker engines.
It seems that all the 273 blocks are a little thin, the 67-68 i have found are the worst, i had to fill my block.
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Old 06-07-2017, 04:13 PM   #15
richie 2
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Default Re: Hardblock?

do we fill the bowtie/dart blocks?
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Old 06-07-2017, 05:51 PM   #16
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Default Re: Hardblock?

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do we fill the bowtie/dart blocks?
No need to . A 4.00" Bowtie block can be taken out to 4.160" and still have a nice thick wall .
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:44 PM   #17
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Default Re: Hardblock?

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Originally Posted by Mike Pearson View Post
Years ago a stocker was only allowed .035 over. The stock blocks were pretty good at that size. Now with the more overbore the need for block fill or the better aftermarket blocks is needed. I personally have not had good luck filling the stock blocks and running at .060 . several have cracked the cylinders. You will be much better off to save a few bucks and get the aftermarket block. They are much stronger in the cylinder walls and deck. The bores will stay round and straight. The lifter bores are also very accurate on the aftermarket blocks. Believe me it will be money well spent. I wont even fool around with stock blocks any more and its real hard to find the older 4 bolt main blocks that are the best.
Very good advice Mike....there is no saving $$ in drag racing ...purchase a bow tie block, it will last you forever.....do it right the first time, you will be glad you did.....
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Old 06-07-2017, 08:40 PM   #18
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Default Re: Hardblock?

Didn't know there is a bow tie block that matches a 273 Mopar.! Oh! The curse of trying to make 50 something old run with modern stuff.
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:45 PM   #19
David Lee
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Default Re: Hardblock?

I guess the real cure without buying a 3K block and getting thick walls, would be to sleeve a 318 to 273 bore size
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Old 06-08-2017, 04:51 AM   #20
Tony Goodman
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Default Re: Hardblock?

I believe a Dart SHP block is less than $2000. There is also the money you will spend on the stock block you will not have to spend on the after market block. Filling, cleaning, checking... So that cost can be deducted off the price of an after market block also.
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