Broken Front Wheel Studs

[Signman]

Just as a long shot

Do you cross tie downs when towing. Am pretty convinced those that tie down straight front and back not crossed allow a lot of side to side movement while towing which causes most of the wheel cracking.
It's a stretch but this would also put some stress on the lug studs.

[John Dinkel]

Were the wheel studs made in China?

[Shadylane]

I checked the hub size compared to the wheel size, there is a difference however the wheel has a small step on the inside to accommodate the hub (see picture). I removed the hub and bolted it to the wheel it fits just fine, no binding or tight spots.
Original un-modified Aerospace hub. I purchased them new.

Studs are Moser's not sure where they are made. I have ordered a set of Mark Williams which are manufactured by ARP. I always lock tight the studs on the hub as they are a true screw in stud without a head.

I do cross my tie downs on the rear but not the front, didn't consider that might be too much side load.

I made sure the small bolt pattern on the wheels matched the small bolt pattern on the hub. Fit is good putting the wheel on the hub.

The first 18 months I raced the car there were no issues, then boom.

Lot's of good ideas from you guys, I'll keep looking.
Thanks

[ss3011]

Mine have a regular head and come with washers with a chamfer on the ID . They are torqued and I use locktite . The picture of the Moser studs you have don't have a head. so do they come with a jam nut ?

[Shadylane]

Originally Posted by ss3011

Mine have a regular head and come with washers with a chamfer on the ID . They are torqued and I use locktite . The picture of the Moser studs you have don't have a head. so do they come with a jam nut ?

Nope, but the MW’s I ordered have a head.

[Race Clean]

Originally Posted by Shadylane

Nope, but the MW’s I ordered have a head.

I think you got your solution right there,I have sheared a Moser stud for no real reason, looked like they had cut threads instead of rolled,I decided to go away from Moser totally at that point and got axles,spool,bolts and misc. stuff from M/W,just put the stuff side by side and you will never look back!

[Shadylane]

Originally Posted by Race Clean

I think you got your solution right there,I have sheared a Moser stud for no real reason, looked like they had cut threads instead of rolled,I decided to go away from Moser totally at that point and got axles,spool,bolts and misc. stuff from M/W,just put the stuff side by side and you will never look back!

I agree the Moser studs look like low grade stuff. I have Moser axles and spool also. So far so good on them. My car is a low hp U/S car so I thought the stuff would hold up.

[Alan Nyhus]

A headless stud is dependent on the threaded fit between stud and hub for alignment. Lacking a head, the stud is going to pivot in the hub thread and be loaded/twisted along it's length as the wheel nut is torqued. Not hard to imagine what happens then. -Al

[r429469]

I have had this happen, a spacer between the wheel and the hub caused the studs to brake. I'm not sure from the pictures but, is there some kind of spacer on your hubs?

[CMcAllister]

Granted I don't pay attention to what every company offers outside of my preferred sources, but I have never seen a headless stud offered for this application outside of the 5/8 drive studs using jamnuts of rear axles. Nor would I consider using them.

I don't want to bash anyone who supports racing, but that's a head scratcher.