BG 20-50 Racing Oil

[Mark Ruset]

Just came across a case of this BG 20-50 racing oil and was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for it. Either it's ok to use or stay far away from it. The application for use would be a 275/327.

[Alan Roehrich]

Mark,
I'd be just about stunned if your little 327 needed or wanted anything close to 20W50, I don't even run that stuff in the 750HP 396 Super Stock engine. The thickest oil you should ever need or want is probably 10W30. That thing would probably be real happy with 0W20, or 5W30, unless it is a lot looser than I think it is. Thick oil just slows you down, and wears the distributor gear (on the distributor and the cam) among other things. If it makes you feel better, I'd say 10W40 in the summer down there in the heat, in bracket mode would be okay. If you're running 20W50 now, you'll probably find a fair amount of ET in 0W20 or 5W30.

[Lee Valentine]

Just run glue, it's cheaper and probably faster.

[Dave Noll]

If you use that oil, use a heater with it as well. A 50 weight @ 212 degree's is thinner that a 0 weight @ 75 degree's.

[james schaechter]

Originally Posted by Alan Roehrich

Mark,
I'd be just about stunned if your little 327 needed or wanted anything close to 20W50, I don't even run that stuff in the 750HP 396 Super Stock engine. The thickest oil you should ever need or want is probably 10W30. That thing would probably be real happy with 0W20, or 5W30, unless it is a lot looser than I think it is. Thick oil just slows you down, and wears the distributor gear (on the distributor and the cam) among other things. If it makes you feel better, I'd say 10W40 in the summer down there in the heat, in bracket mode would be okay. If you're running 20W50 now, you'll probably find a fair amount of ET in 0W20 or 5W30.

Find someone that loves it and trade for a more appropriate viscosity for your engine. There has to be a copo, dragpak or cj dying to scrub off some more HP! :-)

[SBDART]

Originally Posted by Dave Noll

If you use that oil, use a heater with it as well. A 50 weight @ 212 degree's is thinner that a 0 weight @ 75 degree's.

I used to run 50 w in my 340 dart some years ago . now that I have a new motor 416 storker to go down in it before I start it up what would be a good lifeable oil to run in it. just asking???

[Dave Noll]

Larry, I'm not a Mopar guy but they are all engine's. Alan's advice is sound. I said what I did because a 20-50 was a popular oil for the roundy guy's but those motor's spend some time getting warm & buy the time the race is hot & heavy, the oil is @ 20 centistokes. Not so much in our drag racing. (unless it's a street/strip car driven to the track) I spent some time reading here:

www.bobistheoilguy.com

Then I put a wide sweep oil pressure gage in my daily driver (95 escort w/195,000 miles) & started playing with grade's. I know my racecar has different needs, but it's interesting.

[Mark Ruset]

Thanks Alan and to all that replied, I've never used anything else but Valvoline 10/30. I'll keep the BG far away from the Camaro.

[SBDART]

thanks... I like lucas oil that's what I run in my old dart and what I was going to run in the new car and engine...the reason I use lucas is because I had some work done on the last motor an when the guy I had doing the work ask what kind of oil I was using I said lucas he said that the bearing had little or no wear in them . but I do use Valvoline in my truck and my wife car big fan of it. what about the VR1 from Valvoline??? I have heard that some like it for a race oil and a good break in oil. I don't know how true that is.

[Myron Piatek]

As outlined, while the BG 20w-50 is a higher viscosity than needed for drag racing, especially for Stock, it may at least have higher levels of zinc & phosphorous most people recommend for older performance & race applications, as well as break-in. But you have to do some research to know which oils still have higher levels. "Shelf" oils for newer cars and diesels have had a lot removed and even some racing oils don't emphasize the ppm content.

It's explained a bit more in this Amsoil bulletin:

http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...t%20Tappet.pdf

Of course, if you have Schubeck/Smith lifters, it isn't as critical.