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07-16-2010, 06:14 PM | #11 |
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Re: How to slow AA/FC
Im obviously not a fuel crewchief, but, I would tell em all, in January, that only a 10-71 size blower is legal, set boost level at 25 psi, by pulley requirements, one mag, single plug heads,and plug the other hole. If they can only get so much fuel thru the motor, it will only make so much power.Leave the 3.20 gear in em, and they wont over rev. Clutches would be 3 or 4 disc, not 5 or 6. They can run all the other stuff they have, short of camshafts. Heads might be too big, but after you wear out what you have, work on a new head. Digger rules would mirror FC.
They were loud and nasty in the 70's and early 80's, but a good deal slower, for a while anyway.
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07-16-2010, 06:25 PM | #12 |
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Re: How to slow AA/FC
AA/FC's are the nostalgia cars......
Today's Big Show cars are just FC's................:-) |
07-16-2010, 07:51 PM | #13 | |
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Re: How to slow AA/FC
Quote:
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07-16-2010, 08:21 PM | #14 |
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Re: How to slow AA/FC
I was thinking that the original seetings in those rev limiters caused em to knock the rods out, fairly often. I am probably wrong about it, but it always looked to me, that they REALLY loved spending money like it was on fire. Electronics, IMO, will be overcome, by a smarter programmer, in possibly in their cases, a better re programmer. AJ and another one got popped for altering it once already.
The more mechanical means, would be more effective. Simply making them run a smaller pump with 95% else remaining the same, is only a waste of money and time, and a smoke screen for the masses to swing their hands in. My first experience, drag racing wise, was a 32 car FC race in 76. I was blown away by that. But, in a short few more years, seeing Stock,SS and Modifieds and etc., was the hook. I will always enjoy watching FC, but the are not the jazz they once were, to me.
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07-16-2010, 09:12 PM | #15 |
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Re: How to slow AA/FC
You do not want to take ignition away from the fuel cars. When you do, they'll start putting holes out and hydraulicing engines at about 10 times the current rate.
Take away 50 cubic inches, take the blowers down to 12-71, allow no overdrive, and cut the compression ratio. The only thing they will have to buy now is the blowers and the pulleys. Make the 50 cubic inches and lower compression ratio effective at the 2011 WinterNationals and announce it now, so the 50 cubic inches and the lower compression won't cost extra, they'll do it when they place their orders for next year's parts.
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