looking to lower rear of 1970 Chevelle

[chris ok]

3800 plus car w me in it. big block. auto400 trans. m/s, m/brakesl. battery in front. front is good. so far. need to drop an inch from center of wheel down thru center cap

[Greg Barsamian]

What do you currently have for traction devices in the rear?

[chris ok]

car has H R Parts plus 1/4 inch lowers and anti roll bar. Morrison 3 way upper kit set on lowest hole. 30 inch tires. Forgot to measure rear spring compressed hight, got in from working on it a few ago.

[Greg Barsamian]

Not familiar with the Morrison kit, sold a number of the BMR Xtreme sway bars similar to the H&R bar. "A" bodies normally sit lower in the rear.
Were the rear springs changed? if so the ones you have may be taller?
I would double check to see if the Morrison kit is limiting suspension travel?
and double check the links for the "anti roll" bar,

[chris ok]

The upper kit I use is a no hop bar set up w 3 spots to attach at rear end housing..
I use the lowest neaest the factory spot on top of rear end pumpkin.
The lowers are just plus uarter inch to center wheel in wheel well, so they are not up against the front of the rear wheel well fender lip w a tall tire.
Very much a stock style suspension, which the Morrison kit is used in stock eliminator as is the anti roll bar. The lowers being plus length I believe are not.
There is no binding and my friend gave me an old set of rear coils I will try but do not know what they are from.
I'm hoping there is a moog numberor eaton to lower a little, car is nose diving now. w 30" talls rears and 27" talls front as in tires
I tried Hotchkis. Lowered it to much so the front of the lower trailing arms were pointed to the ground. To low for my car.

[Greg Barsamian]

Chris you have a Pm

[1320racer]

Chris, what exactly are you trying to achieve, what is your ride height now at each wheel well opening?

Here's my former Chevelle, BB, turbo400, ps, pb with 27" front runners and 30" slicks and it's ride height is perfect.

[chris ok]

Wow Ed, that car still looks great to me. I miss it. But understand progress and its working well for you.
My car now sits just like that. I thought I should get the tail end down. My car sits pretty square now left to right side. Off about 1/4 to 3/8 side to side. I swapped rear springs as car was 5/8 taller on pass side w no driver. It appears to have helped big time so I think I may need rear springs.
I stil have to cut an extra 1/2 coil off pass side to keep front suare but a measurable difference in measurement of lower control arm to frame measured at lower bump stop.
I had to put aftermarket front control arms on as I bent 3 sets of Morosos. Always come out curved
The new arms appear to keep spring straight in front frame pocket now. I've been trying to dial in car before I race again, hopefully this year.
Thanks for looking Ed.
Chris.

[chris ok]

sorry, but I forgot to add, I broke somehow the right front shock, red Koni, w the morosos, and started to hit the new Calverts I purchased. I put the Santhuff springs in next, flat bottoms on bothend but there was not gonna be enough clearance w the fatter Calvert shock(fatter tehn the koni that is) Global West arms are not for me but they seem to let the shock breathe all around in the spring and the springs do not appear to arch .


you can see moroso spring hitting new calvert shock on right front.

[1320racer]

Chris, something ain't right or wasn't right if you were bending springs with the factory A arms and breaking shocks. That said, I never used Moroso "trick" springs on the Chevelle.

I'd be checking everything for square as well all attachment points for a crack or broken weld before I'd run it down the track again.

Made over 4000 passes with my Chevelle, never bent a spring or broke a shock("red Koni" too) and the A arms were the ones installed at the factory in 1968...