Stockeer two step

[Rick Kagawa]

I am thinking about changing my two step setup. I want to find out how you have your foot brake button mounted and which button you are using. I called Biondo Racing and Rich told me to post the question to Class Racer.

How do you keep from engaging the two step at the top end?

Where do you place the button on the brake pedal? Is it on the right side or left side?

What button are you using?

Thanks,

Rick

[Dragsinger]

Rick,

just a few notes, I also plan on doing what you are talking about. I have not be able to get comfortable with the brake pedal mounted switch, to me, it seems clumsy. However, I know many racers use them successfully.

One way to switch the two step is with a brake/stop light pressure switch plumbed into a brake line. [example, Standard Motor Products # sls-27] This is a Ford stop light switch with 1/8" pipe thread and two male terminals.

Now, Of course, you need a safe way to activate/deactivate the two step. One method is a micro switch on the shifter so the two step only works in low gear, thus, no problem at the finish line.

Also, a toggle switch could be installed that completely turns off the two step power, deal is, it must be part of your staging routine to power on the two step before staging. I "think" the power disconnect switch could be left in the on position always, then you have the option to power off the system if the need comes up.

Another upgrade I plan to add is a brake line pressure gauge. I hear racers talking about consistently applying the same pressure when staging. Makes sense to me.

[Michael Beard]

If you really have to run a two-step, use a brake pressure guage and brake pressure-activated switch. You're very likely to have consistency issues with a pedal-mounted button.

Personally, I recommend just leaving off the footbrake. It's one less thing that can go wrong.

[LNorton]

Originally Posted by Michael Beard

Personally, I recommend just leaving off the footbrake. It's one less thing that can go wrong.

Another plus to driving this way is being able to run footbrake at local and big dollar races without changing driving style.

[Tony Curcio]

I tried the Ford brake light switch and found it was slow to release. So slow that the 60 foot times were noticeably slower because the car was starting to roll (an inch or two maybe) before the engine was kicked in. This car with this particular carburetor was usually .03 quicker off the 2-step on a hand-release button.

It also seemed inconsistent.

The cure was a high pressure switch for industrial equipment, purchased from the Grainger catalogue. There's even an adjustable switch, although it costs over $400.00. A separate Autometer guage was installed and a red light to let me know when the brake pressure is right. I learned that my application requires about 850 lbs to hold the car at 3000 rpm. So, the release is set for 800.

Make sure the T-fitting is in line BEFORE the line lock, otherwise the 2 step stays on during a burnout. Sounds obvious now, but didn't think of it at the time.

[Jeff Teuton]

Here is what I got and here is what I do. I have a 440-6. The two step lets you leave with the carburetors open and no stumble. With three carbs, you don't ever let up the gas pedal. So we use a Jeep stop light switch on the pedal, works great. We have a toggle to activate the two step. We have a window switch that lets that switch work between 2500 and 4500 rpm, hence when you put the brakes on at the finish line, the motor does not studder. We have the same set up on both of our top stock cars (soon to be GT cars). If you like, I can get you the number for the brake light switch. They are available from NAPA. I think it is a common switch. We have MSD Digitals on two cars , and a 7AL2 on the other. Hope this helps.

[Rob Petrie E395]

mines not a stocker just a footbrake car but its sorta the same in a way. What I did is I went to Tractor Supply or Lowes and got a lengh of 2 X 2 Aluminium angle that is about 1/4 inch thick and cut a piece off and bolted it to the brake pedal (both the pedal pad part and the part that the pedal pad is welded to) Then I got a regular transbrake switch mine is the B&M with the big red button. The button ended up being about 1 1/2 inches higher than the pedal pad. What I do is bring the brake pressure up before staging then once I am staged I push the button with my toes to engage the 2 step and then once the other person stages I bring it up on the two step. As soon a you pull your foot off the brake to leave the 2 step is off instantly. And at the finsh line if I need to get in the brake the button is high enoughf that I have never hit it. If somebody wants pictures I can send them and you can post them here if you want (I still have not figured that part out yet) I have been doing it this way for 5 or 6 years now and still use the same button. I have been carrying a spare in the trailer thinking it would break from pushing to hard but they must be pretty toughf

[Whalen3186]

We bought a brake pedal cover off of ebay. I think it was about 15bucks, and had a gas pedal also. It fit right over the brake pedal and is about twice as big, so plenty of room to slide your foot over when staging and press the switch in. I just got a transbrake switch from Biondo's and it works fine. As far as hitting the 2step on the big end, you folks need to remember it is not a transbrake, if your off the gas it won't make a bit of difference. It is more of a challenge in the burnout.

[Rob Petrie E395]

Originally Posted by Whalen3186

We bought a brake pedal cover off of ebay. I think it was about 15bucks, and had a gas pedal also. It fit right over the brake pedal and is about twice as big, so plenty of room to slide your foot over when staging and press the switch in. I just got a transbrake switch from Biondo's and it works fine. As far as hitting the 2step on the big end, you folks need to remember it is not a transbrake, if your off the gas it won't make a bit of difference. It is more of a challenge in the burnout.

Correct BUT if one foot has the throttle on the floor and you use the other to just scrub some speed with the brake and hit the button I have heard all hell breaks loose as a engine at 7 or 8 thousand RPM does not like it when the 2-3 thousand RPM two step kicks in. I could be wrong but this is my understanding of why some are afraid of the 2 step coming on near the finish when getting on the brake.

[Kenny Wigington]

You could run your power wire thru an extra neutral safety type switch and then to the brake pedal. The extra switch would be behind the shifter and activate only in low gear. Running in line, that would be the only time it would engage, when in low gear.