Wheel Studs

[Mike Gray]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

Gum, or even clay. So 1950.

I used Play-Doh for valves once (worked pretty good!)

[DailyDriverSst]

I've used 1/2" studs before, my platform came from the factory with 1/2" studs. But I will never run them again in a race application - 5/8 studs all the way. Not being able to run a stock style wheel is a very small concession to make in the name of safety. When in doubt, drill them out to 11/16 or 45/64ths and get a second set of nut spacers machined to match the modified lug nut seat on the wheels.

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by DailyDriverSst

I've used 1/2" studs before, my platform came from the factory with 1/2" studs. But I will never run them again in a race application - 5/8 studs all the way. Not being able to run a stock style wheel is a very small concession to make in the name of safety. When in doubt, drill them out to 11/16 or 45/64ths and get a second set of nut spacers machined to match the modified lug nut seat on the wheels.

There ya go!! ^^^^^^

[DailyDriverSst]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

There ya go!! ^^^^^^

It's easy with access to a lathe. Drill out the wheels (ideally a unibit to 11/16 then a 45/64th if absolutely necessary), and use a 5/8-18 bolt with a fender washer on the backside to simulate the wheel hub, put some dicom on the wheel, then slide the nut spacer on. Where the dicum touches, take a little off. Dicum, cut. Dicum, cut. Once the dicum makes 100% transfer from wheel to spacer, you're done, and you have a general template to make the other spacers from, using the dicum to check fitment. Hopefully squareness wouldn't be an issue with using a lathe.

It's tedius, but only has to be done once...hopefully. It's no worse than grinding cylinder heads to clear pushrods....

[1320racer]

Again...



3880 lbs. 60 foots 1.30s, best of 1.28. Moser axles and 1/2" studs, torqued to 100 lbs. Never broke a stud, thousands of passes and still in service.