340 engine / trans for sale

[mike coates]

Engine / trans/ converter is SOLD. Thanks Class racer!

Drive shaft is still available
If anyone is interested, once the above parts sell, I will have a drive shaft for a dart swinger with small block and 727 trans. Has the small u-joints. It is a Victory mild steel shaft, 3.5” dia I think. Bought new by me when I built the car 8 years ago.
$150


FOR SALE:
1970 340 PURE STOCK ENGINE
The engine was built to compete in IHRA pure stock, but could be used for racing or street if desired. This is a legal engine built by me. No creative license taken, other than a couple of odd ball things I had to do to assemble per the tech specs. This is what it has:
Engine was in a 1970 dart swinger.
Engine was rebuilt last year. The bearings and rings were replaced, the cylinders de-glazed. It has 21 or 22 runs since rebuild.
Best ET in “bracket” trim, i.e. electric water pump / fan and @ 3375 lbs, approx. 66 deg F, 40% humidity, engine temp 140 deg F, was 12.76.
Best ET is Pure Stock trim, crank driven water pump / fan @ 3445 lbs (D min + 30),air temps somewhere in the 80’s, engine temp around 140 deg F, was 13.03
Stock AVS, # 4934. Has repaired base, but have been running like this with no issues. I will include a spare that was actually a reman carb. Plus various parts I took off of both. Didn’t work well and I can explain why I think so if interested.
Stock 1970 intake, un-touched
X heads, with stock valve springs and valves. Head is un-touched. Valves and springs are true stock replacements, no back cut, spring pressures to factory specs. They are shimmed to equalize. If you planned to race, I would change as they start to float around 6200, which doesn’t match the cam very well. If you want to run on street, they should be OK, but won’t work with anything over probably a 4.11 gear.
Block is bored 30 over, it has been decked and align honed (8 years ago). The bores were de-glazed last year for the rebuild. New freeze plugs, cam bearings, distributor bushing. Has a crack from one bolt hole to the water jacket. It is not deep and I have used thread locker / sealant on the bolt for the last 8 years, with three separate re-assemblies with no issues.
Cam is a Isky brand. Lift is .468 intake, .479 exhaust, duration is 256 intake, 260 exhaust @ .050 lift
Lunati lifters
Stock stamped steel rockers and shafts. The push rods were made individually for each valve because the valve tips were not ground to the same height.
Has a shield under the intake to keep oil off of the bottom of the intake
TRW forged pistons per NHRA acceptance list. I did machine the chamfer on the pistons larger because of deck height. They were hitting the head with zero deck and they stick up .045” per the specs. I had to stack two head gaskets because of this issue and machining the chamfers was an attempt to eliminate the need for two head gaskets. However, because of valve to piston clearance, I still have two head gaskets stacked. The TRW pistons were made so the valve reliefs are not really functional and the valves hit the piston in this area. I discovered this during the last rebuild as I was trying to advance the cam. The valve clearance is about 0.050”, so the reason this is OK for racing but may need to be changed for the street. (that and the camshaft) A cam change with less duration will probably eliminate this concern. But since it has always been this way, I left as is.
Rods are stock rods that were floated, but steel to steel, no bushings
Crank is forged stock, ground .020 under on mains and rod journals.
Has windage tray, stock oil pump and pan.
The following parts DO NOT GO WITH THE ENGINE.
Distributor
Coil and wires
Fittings for gauges
Headers (will include for additional charge) 1 ¾”, coated at one time by nitro plate, but needs redone Hooker super comps
Engine Mounts
**Subject to change in case I think of something else I forgot**

Engine is in the car, so you can hear it run and maybe take for a short drive down the road. (warning it isn’t licensed)

$2500 ($2650 if you want the headers, $2700 if you want the flow masters attached to the headers)

I am also selling the transmission and convertor from this car:

727 trans with TCI race kit, rebuilt by me. Cheetah manual reverse valve body. Summit deep, cast aluminum pan. This has been used in this car for the last 8 years. Running 12.90’s on average. Approximately 200 runs. Changed fluid when I installed the Summit pan approximately 100 runs ago. Leaks some oil either from the converter seal or the pan, not really sure where, just enough to wet the pan. Trans stills shifts hard with no issues.
Does not include shifting linkages and attachments or mounting hardware, shields etc.
$300

ATI 8” tree master converter. It is supposed to flash around 4000 – 4500. Used only in this car and purchased new by me.
$400

Will sell the package for $3000 (excluding items already listed above)

Trans and convertor package for $600

Will separate, but only in the following order:
Engine sells first.
Torque convertor second
Trans last

If anyone is interested, once the above parts sell, I will have a drive shaft for a dart swinger with small block and 727 trans. Has the small u-joints. It is a Victory mild steel shaft, 3.5” dia I think. Bought new by me when I built the car 8 years ago.
$150

prefer emails at oemsg at aol dot com

[Jeff Lee]

I'm not familiar with the class. Why does a '70 Swinger have to weigh 4445 #'s??? That's more than a Hemi GTX!
I sent the ad to a friend. His 15 year old just got a super straight / rust free '62 Valiant that needs an engine. Gawd-awfull ugly car but looks like a 2800# small block car to me.

[mike coates]

Jeff
Thanks for pointing that out, a typo on my part.
That should be 3445.

I thought it looked odd when I typed it.....
Mike