Ol' Fart's Firebird Fantasy

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by Tony Corley

You don't have time to be on here. You have 2 race cars to get finished and submit reports on , lol

I worked on the Mustang yesterday...today I am lounging.

[Tony Corley]

Originally Posted by HandOverFist

I worked on the Mustang yesterday...today I am lounging.

I am enjoying the build updates. Just started a Mustang Stocker Project myself.

[oldskool]

Originally Posted by Tony Corley

This site is a good source for answering a lot of your questions.


http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/


Necessary to me would be anything that gives an advantage, but at the same time, I had a 71 Monte Carlo SS 454 back in the early 80's that would run 11.50's with 1.50 sixty foot times with nothing but air shocks on the rear, lol.
'

Wow ! This blows my preconceived ideas out of the water. That site has some great info.

One of the main things I got from it that might pertain to a heavy coil spring Stocker is that if you are getting 100% traction without a lot of front end rise, then don't loosen up the front or use 90/10 shocks. What you want is to use all your power for propelling the car forward. If front end rise is not needed for traction, then your ET will be better if all your power is moving the car forward.

Also, I read that you want soft springs to help traction. But, this guy says that for a stock suspension coil spring car, you want stiff springs, so that all the weight is used to push the tires into the track. If the springs are soft, then on the initial hit, the body will squat, instead of pushing down on the tires. Makes sense to me.

And the part about the '71 Monte with nothing but air shocks: if I remember correctly, that was a heavy body style, very similar to the '69-'77 Pontiac GP. So, that may be a further indication that all these fancy suspension pieces are not needed for a HEAVY, low buck Stocker. Would probably be a good idea to start with stiffer bushings, stronger springs, air bags and stiff shocks--try that and see how it works, before spending a bunch on parts that may not be needed at all.

[Tony Corley]

[QUOTE=oldskool;458884]Wow ! This blows my preconceived ideas out of the water. That site has some great info.

One of the main things I got from it that might pertain to a heavy coil spring Stocker is that if you are getting 100% traction without a lot of front end rise, then don't loosen up the front or use 90/10 shocks. What you want is to use all your power for propelling the car forward. If front end rise is not needed for traction, then your ET will be better if all your power is moving the car forward.

Also, I read that you want soft springs to help traction. But, this guy says that for a stock suspension coil spring car, you want stiff springs, so that all the weight is used to push the tires into the track. If the springs are soft, then on the initial hit, the body will squat, instead of pushing down on the tires. Makes sense to me.

And the part about the '71 Monte with nothing but air shocks: if I remember correctly, that was a heavy body style, very similar to the '69-'77 Pontiac GP. So, that may be a further indication that all these fancy suspension pieces are not needed for a HEAVY, low buck Stocker. Would probably be a good idea to start with stiffer bushings, stronger springs, air bags and stiff shocks--try that and see how it works, before spending a bunch on parts that may not be needed at all. [/QUOTE


It worked, but think of how much quicker it might have been using todays suspension technology!!

[oldskool]

Originally Posted by Adam Strang

I`m working on the `68 350 HO right now.I got a CP piston approved by NHRA .I think the only thing hurting the motor will be the small intake valve it does have the same cam,carb and intake as the 400 so it can`t be that bad.That being said I still think it needs another 5 or 10 hp off.

Hey Adam, I am REAL interested in your 350HO build. Why don't you start a thread on it ???

With the small cubes I don't think the small intake valves will hurt a thing. Hey, them screamin sbc motors only have 2.02 valves. And with the almost unlimited duration available from a Bullet Stocker cam, you'll have all the flow you need.

I'm thinkin you'll need to turn it at least 7000rpm +. So I reckin you'll need some heavy springs and some of those Sherman tool steel lifters like Brent is gonna get. What do you think ? At least 4500 stall ?

I bought a '69 Tempest 350HO ex-Stocker to run bracket with. The dyno sheet said it made 434hp. But it was not tricked out. Just a stock rod, TRW engine. Ran mid 12's. I had a diesel crew cab, a two car gooseneck, and 2 Pontiac powered bracket cars, for the 2010 season. But our local track did not open the entire year. Sold the truck, trailer, T-body and the #48 heads.

Hey, don't forget. Start that build thread !

[oldskool]

[/QUOTE
It worked, but think of how much quicker it might have been using todays suspension technology!![/QUOTE]


What I got out of what the guy said, that I think might apply to a HEAVY (over 4000lbs) Stocker is that IF you are getting 100% traction without a super loose front suspension and fancy rear suspension pieces, then you will not go any quicker by using these other parts and methods.

I am thinking that one of these HEAVY cars, especially a wagon, will have enuff weight on the rear tires to get max traction with only stiff bushings, springs, shocks and air bags.

But hey, I could be wrong. If so, it won't be the 1st time.

The only reason NOT to go with the latest and greatest is $$. If you have the coins to spend, by all means, by the best of everything. But I'm talking about what you can get by with for a very low budget build.

[Adam Strang]

Stall???? He don`t know me very well,do he!

[oldskool]

Originally Posted by Adam Strang

Stall???? He don`t know me very well,do he!

No, actually, I don't know anybody on here at all. So by what you said, I assume that you are a die hard stick guy ?

Do you (or any of the stick guys) still win a lot of rounds, even with the bracket racing nature of today's Stocker racing ?

You said you got a CP piston approved for the 350HO. How long ago was that ? What is the CP part number ? It's not listed on this site yet. They still have only the TRW. Would you please post some pics of these CP pistons ? Do they have floating pins with spiral locks or ?

http://www.classracerinfo.com/Engine...px?ENGINE=2008

[Adam Strang]

Go to the NHRA site and look under approved products.The number is P5-CP.Got them approved a year and half ago.

[oldskool]

Originally Posted by Adam Strang

Go to the NHRA site and look under approved products.The number is P5-CP.Got them approved a year and half ago.

OK, got it--page 60. What did you have to do to get CP to make this piston ?

http://www.nhra.com/userfiles/file/N...edProducts.pdf