crankshaft bolt on damper turning tool

[Dragsinger]

Hand, you are correct about bumping. I am double checking my TDC pointer and cam center line so I need the long handle manual smoothness.

It would be easy to build what I want but for $20.00 store bought not worth the time.

[HandOverFist]

Yeah I used to lie on my back in the gravel to swap transmissions too. I know it can be done and has been for years...I don't do that anymore lol.

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by HandOverFist

:"Bumping" the starter will work, but you can't really control where it will stop. I prefer to do it manually.

When you set your valves, are you trying to turn it to a given point on the dampener?
You think it needs to stop at a certain degree BTDC? You do know the lifter just has to be on the cam's base, right?

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

When you set your valves, are you trying to turn it to a given point on the dampener?
You think it needs to stop at a certain degree BTDC? You do know the lifter just has to be on the cam's base, right?

I don't know about Rich, but I'm a neat freak and like "First pushrod movement" to be just that. I have a high torque starter and bumping with a trigger will push it too far too easily. Not as consistent and controllable as hand cranking. I'm also too picky and burn a lot of time with stuff like this.

[Greenlight]

This one works pretty good. You can turn the engine in either direction without worrying about the bolt backing out.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/2-In-1...CABEgJLY_D_BwE

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by FireSale

I don't know about Rich, but I'm a neat freak and like "First pushrod movement" to be just that. I have a high torque starter and bumping with a trigger will push it too far too easily. Not as consistent and controllable as hand cranking. I'm also too picky and burn a lot of time with stuff like this.

Somebody told you to set your valves exactly when a pushrod moves? Really? You may be more mis informed about how the valvetrane functions, than "neat".

And somebody mentioned being uneasy turning the engine by "that 7/16" bolt" in the end of the crank? I just checked my fully assembled engine on the stand. All spark plug in, etc. takes 35 ftlbs to turn it. Have to wonder how 35 ft lbs is going to be hard on that 7/16" bolt? They typically torque to 70 ft lbs. 35 ft lbs won't "back out" a 7/16"
bolt properly torqued.

[Dragsinger]

Ed, I the specific case of the engine I am working with, it has bushing lifters. With those, there is a significant difference in rotating torque. In addition, it has .950 lift a 1000 lb + springs.

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

Somebody told you to set your valves exactly when a pushrod moves? Really? You may be more mis informed about how the valvetrane functions, than "neat".

...edited....

The process begins when the exhaust pushrod moves. A couple of hundred sources say this, what did I miss?

Dragzine:
EO/IC rule (Exhaust Opening and Intake Closing). Set the intake valve lash when the exhaust valve is beginning to open. This will put the intake lifter at the base circle which is where you want it to be. Then set the exhaust valve lash when the intake valve is about halfway down on the closing side.

On All Cylinders:
Then, rotate the engine until the exhaust pushrod on the cylinder you are working on begins to move upward. You’ll be looking for any rocker arm movement. This is the process of exhaust opening. At this point, you can adjust the intake because the intake valve will be closed, ensuring that the intake lifter is on the base circle of the cam.


Wallace Racing:
2. Hand turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation while watching the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder.
When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake valve.
(Why? Because when the exhaust is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe,
so the intake is the one we can now adjust.)

Note: It's "misinformed" and "valve train"

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Dragsinger

Ed, I the specific case of the engine I am working with, it has bushing lifters. With those, there is a significant difference in rotating torque. In addition, it has .950 lift a 1000 lb + springs.

Mine has the big lifters in bronze bushings. .824" lift, 1010/1015 open, 1.8-1 intake rockers.

[randy wilson]

Originally Posted by FireSale

The process begins when the exhaust pushrod moves. A couple of hundred sources say this, what did I miss?

Dragzine:
EO/IC rule (Exhaust Opening and Intake Closing). Set the intake valve lash when the exhaust valve is beginning to open. This will put the intake lifter at the base circle which is where you want it to be. Then set the exhaust valve lash when the intake valve is about halfway down on the closing side.

On All Cylinders:
Then, rotate the engine until the exhaust pushrod on the cylinder you are working on begins to move upward. You’ll be looking for any rocker arm movement. This is the process of exhaust opening. At this point, you can adjust the intake because the intake valve will be closed, ensuring that the intake lifter is on the base circle of the cam.


Wallace Racing:
2. Hand turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation while watching the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder.
When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake valve.
(Why? Because when the exhaust is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe,
so the intake is the one we can now adjust.)

Note: It's "misinformed" and "valve train"

This a a good start, but as anyone will tell you, you can set them exactly this way, but when you bump it a bit more, the lash may be a few thousandth's looser, and you may have to readjust. Every cam has its "sweet" spot. Just how I do it.