Are synthetic oils and lubricants any quicker

[Alan Roehrich]

Originally Posted by 8secchevelle

Alan I had this conversation with mr. B about the gl6 lube but I have not been able to locate any , is it available in the Nashville area? Thanks .

Richmond synthetic gear oil is API GL-6. I suspect that Royal Purple synthetic is also API GL-6, although they say to use it where GL-4 or GL-5 is required, it is not actually API rated. Torco and Redline both state their gear oil is GL-6.

The GL-6 designation is no longer required by any major OE, and as such is considered "obsolete". However, GL-6 is precisely what is required for drag racing, as it is the oil required for high hypoid, high pinion offset, extreme impact, extreme load applications.

You probably will not find a GL-6 lube on the shelf at a typical parts house.

Note that the looser you run your gears, the higher viscosity you need for severe impact protection.

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by Alan Roehrich

GL-6 is precisely what is required for drag racing, as it is the oil required for high hypoid, high pinion offset, extreme impact, extreme load applications.

I must have missed the memo, because to the best of my knowledge the Mobil 1 Synthetic gear lube that I have been using for over 2 decades and over 5000 passes in 2 cars is GL-5 and by some miracle the R&P in my 9" housing under my Firebird in which I 60 foot quicker(1.17 best) and runs quicker than most posting here survived weekly racing for 4 years and over 700+ passes before the pinion gear started to fail.

[buzzinhalfdozen]

[QUOTE=1320racer;416413]I must have missed the memo, because to the best of my knowledge the Mobil 1 Synthetic gear lube that I have been using for over 2 decades and over 5000 passes in 2 cars is GL-5 and by some miracle the R&P in my 9" housing under my Firebird in which I 60 foot quicker(1.17 best) and runs quicker than most posting here survived weekly racing for 4 years and over 700+ passes before the pinion gear started to fail.[/QUOTE
Man some things never change....first off you never stated, pro or street gear. If it's a pro gear I'll have to disregard your posts as they will not survive that number of runs they are way too soft. After assembling hundreds of gears of all types, 10 bolts 12 bolts, 8.8 & 9inch for every thing from a 12 second bracket car to 6 second top sportsman rides, the trick to making them last is proper gear prep and assembly. From my personal experience a pro gear at it's best will go a few hundred runs, it will eventually merely wear out very few actually break, unless the warning signs were ignored. Street gears now many hundreds of runs can be made on them and most meet their demise in the same manner....broken R&P teeth. A properly set up gear set will survive most any lube you chose to use (within reason) however the original question I believe was is there a performance gain to be had from synthetic lubes. Looks like a few responded with their actual experiences with different lubes and 1 response merely referring to how he thinks it should be done. BTW the first question I ask someone wanting a gear set up is "what's it being used in" the final assembly is different car to car.

[1320racer]

Richmond Pro Gear bolted to a MW aluminum spool in a MW "Pro Stock" 3rd member and it's a FACT, my gear set survived over 700 passes launching my 3144 lb. MPR built super stock car to low 1.20 60 foots and a best to date of 1.17 with 1 quart of Mobil 1 Synthetic gear lube in it's 9" housing and I expect the current gear set to do the same.

Making blanket statements like Alan and now you have are irresponsible at best, self serving at worst.

[Maverick]

I have a question, and it is about gear life, but more with the ratio's than the lubrication. Do the whole number ratio's have less life the the non whole numbers. For example a 5.0, certain pinion teeth only hit on certain teeth on the ring gear. While a 4.86 ratio, all the pinion teeth will eventually mate with the ring teeth. Does this promote longer gear life, when the teeth of the gears, are moving to different teeth each revolution. I believe, they call the gear sets hunting and non-hunting. I went to 4.86 instead of 5.0 for this reason. But don't know for sure
Steve "Willie" Williams from Indiana

[Dwight Southerland]

Common engineering is just like you describe for the consideration of wear. For the special usage of drag racing gears, it is not as much an issue since the gears will break or get retired before they wear out. Except in the case of 1320racer, since his stuff never breaks and he makes so many passes every year that he must commute to work in his race car.

[1320racer]

Dwight lets keep the discussion constructive and on topic.

That said, I've been racing nearly every weekend, 36 weekends a season, non stop for the past 22 years. Everything I have stated is true and 1st hand experience.

BTW, I hurt several engines, transmissions and rears during this time and all have been a learning experience.

Last I hurt my engine was on the last day of the 2012 season. Good news, it's been 9 years since I broke a transmission, thanks to Carl Rossler and I use synthetic oils/lubricants in my entire driveline and for most of the past 22 years.

[buzzinhalfdozen]

Ed, first I made no blanket statements, I posted my experience with my race car plus the many, many gear set' I've prepared for various racers. I stated I personally saw no measurable difference between the fluids, while stating that prep and set up is what leads to a long life from a gear set. please enlighten me as to exactly how many gear sets you've installed. A call to any reputable company will confirm that running an aluminum spool decreases gear life, this is "fact and truth" you're 2 favorite things, heavy cars, above 2800 lbs. according to Mark Williams they DO NOT recommend aluminum spools....why? Gear life is shortened. I'm sure with your higher education you can grasp the concept that an aluminum spool simply cannot resist deflection like it's steel counterpart. Now I've given pertinent info regarding the original question, not merely made unbelievable statements about how, FAST, GREAT, RELIABLE, PEPEATABLE, TICKET PRINTING my car is, so who's really making irresponsible and blanket statements? BTW I now know why your fellow racers call you "big head Ed" have a good one. Jeff, sorry for getting this post a bit sideways hope you got some good info out of the replies. Joe

[1320racer]

This is a blanket statement...

Originally Posted by buzzinhalfdozen

a pro gear will not survive that number of runs they are way too soft.

and obviously NOT true based on my 1st hand experience with my race car!

Further, this statement...

Originally Posted by buzzinhalfdozen

made unbelievable statements

infers that I am lying, which is not the case and is a personal attack.

Sorry to be the one to break it to you, but just maybe you aren't as good as you think you are being a gm "college" educated master technician and all. Just because you haven't been able to achieve the same, you chose to turn a blind eye and turn a deaf ear!

Newsflash...when you come out of your self induced coma and open your eyes and ears, you'll find that there are countless stock and super stock racers as well as many other class racers in other venues, sucessfully running an aluminum spool in cars heavier than 2800 lbs. including yours truely without issue or concern. Further, those that build these cars are installing aluminum spools without concern or issue too!!

As to a manufacturer's disclaimer, they are what they are, written by lawyers who's job it is to protect their clients from frivolous law suits.

That said, I don't care what you believe nor do I care what you or anyone else does with their car. I am simply offering the op as well those following this thread, my first hand experience as to what has worked for me with my race cars for over 2 decades. It is not my concern that this experience proves your and Allan's blanket statements to be untrue! Meanwhile, I don't make decisions whether it be business, personal or about my race program by committee no mind based on what I read on an internet forum, so I'll just keep doing what I'm doing regardless who here finds my statements unbelievable.

BTW, I've installed and setup the R&P in the 12 bolt of my former Chevelle for many years and now do the same with the 9" in my Firebird.

[Alan Roehrich]

It wasn't my "blanket statement", Ed, it was a statement by the API, and by the OEM's, regarding their products.

But, of course, I'm sure you know more than the API, and all of the OE automotive manufacturers, combined.

In any event, I'll not waste any more of Kenny's bandwidth on responding to you. Have a nice rest of your legendary life.